Colonial Williamsburg Digital Library

Alice Ives
GLOSSARY

Allamode, alamode, mode -

a plain soft glossy thin silk, usually black, sometimes white; used for hoods, mantuas and linings. Worn for mourning.

Bobban, bobbin -

bobbin lace, or lace made over a pillow with bobbins.

Cambrick, cambric -

a fine white linen cloth in a plain weave; originally made of worsted thread. Used for shifts, shirts, ruffles and handkerchiefs.

Camlet -

a plain weave textile made of camel's hair and silk, goat's hair, partly silk or linen, or entirely wool; used for cloaks, petticoats, bed hangings and furniture.

Cloggs, clogs -

overshoes with soles of wood or thick leather and uppers of fine material, often matching the shoes they were worn with.

Coat (woman's) -

short for petticoat, a skirt that was part of the dress.

Drugget -

a thin, narrow material, usually made with a worsted warp and a woolen or silk weft; sometimes ribbed; used for men's summer suits and ladies' petticoats.

Duroy -

a lightweight, worsted material, sometimes glazed; used for men's suits and women's gowns.

Flourishing thread -

embroidery thread.

Galloone, galloon -

a strong, thick, closely woven gold or silver lace, with an even selvedge on each side, used for servants' livery; also a narrow ribbon made of wool, silk or cotton combined with silk or worsted; used for trimming and binding hats, dresses and furniture.

Handkerchief -

sometimes a pocket handkerchief; usually a triangular piece or a square or other shape folded around the neck; used for warmth and to fill in the decolletage. Made of linen, silk or cotton; plain or printed.

Lutestring, lustring -

a light, crisp plain silk with a high luster.

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Mantua silk -

a heavy, plain weave silk material, commonly used for gowns.

Muslin -

a very fine thin cotton fabric, almost transparent. Comes in many varieties: thin, fine, and coarse, and used for many things, including children's robes, aprons, ladies' gowns and tambour embroidery.

Norwich Crape -

a fabric made of a silk warp and worsted weft, twill woven like a bombazine, with the worsted thrown to the right side. Usually black, but sometime white; used by the clergy, and for official court mourning.

Persian -

a thin plain silk used for summer gowns, and for linings in coats, petticoats and gowns .

Sarcenet -

a thin, transparent silk of plain or twill weave, thicker than Persian; used for summer gowns.

Sattin, satin -

a silky material which is smooth and shiny on one side and dull on the other; usually made of silk or worsted; can be brocaded. Used for gowns and waistcoats.

Shalloone, shalloon -

a loosely woven worsted stuff, thin, short-napped, and twilled; used for coat linings and for dresses.

Stomacher -

a stiffened panel in the front of the dress; the bottom part is pointed, rounded or scalloped with a straight upper border.

Stays -

a buckram garment stiffened with whalebones worn on the upper part of the body to shape and support the body.

Stuff -

a worsted material without a nap or pile.

Tapes -

narrow braid or flat woven bands of linen or cotton, used for strings.

Shift, STAYS and PETTICOAT (COAT)
Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg by Linda Baumgarten

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Hunter
March 1, 1738Bombazeens, Crapes, and other Sorts of Mourning, for Ladies; also Hatband, and Gloves, for Gentlemen:
Sold by Sarah Packe,
in Williamsburg.

Sarah Packe Green
GLOSSARY

Bombazeen, bombazine -

a slightly twilled textile of silk warp and worsted weft or silk and Bombay cotton, similar to Norwich Crape; used for mourning.

Crape -

a light, transparent stuff, in the manner of gauze; made of raw silk, gummed and twisted on the mill; woven without crossing. Some crapes were made of worsted and sometimes mixed with silk; usually used for mourning.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Parks
June 20, 1745 Just imported in the Ship Restoration, Capt. John Wilcox, from
LONDON,
A Quantity of Lace, Cambricks, Holland Calicoes, Chintz's, printed Linnens, Kenting, Velvet Caps and Hoods, Women's Gloves, Silk Shoes, Glass Rings, and other Milinary Goods, which are to be sold by the Subscriber, at her House in Palace Street, Williamsburg; Also all Sorts of Roger's Earthen-Ware, as cheap as at York.
Frances Webb.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Parks
March 27, 1746 Just Imported,
A Choice Parcel of Lace, Cambricks, Ribbons, Gause Handkerchiefs, Velvet Hoods, lac'd and plain, Mantelets and Cloaks, Chintz, printed Linens, Calicoes, Silk Stockings, Fans and Fan-mounts, Children's quilted Caps, and other millinary Goods, Also, a curious Collection of Toys, and are to be Sold by the Subscriber, in Palace-Street, Williamsburg.
Frances Webb.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Parks
July 31, 1746 Just imported in the Elizabeth, Capt. Coolidge, from London by the Subscriber in Williamsburg
A Choice Collection of neat Gold Rings, set with various Stones, Snuff Boxes set with Lapis lazuls, Onyx, Egyptian Pebble, and Philosopher Stones, neat Gold Seals plain and enamell'd, and set with Stones, Womens Shoe Buckles, and handsome Girdle Ditto, neatly set with fine Stones, Mens Shoe and Knee Buckles, curious Twesers in Metal and Gold, set with Philosopher Stones, &c. handsome Instrument Cases chas'd, and set with Stones, Womens Chains, nice Waistcoat Buttons well gilt, Silver Thimbles, Ditto with Steel Heads, Ditto lin'd with Silver, several Sets of the best polish'd Tea Spoons, Tongs, and Strainers in Cases; also a great Quantity of Mens, Womens and Maids best Kid Gloves, with sundry others, by
Frances Webb.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Parks
July 10, 1752 To be SOLD, at very reasonable Rates, by the Subscribers, in
Williamsburg,
A CHOICE Assortment of Silks, consisting of India Damasks, Grosgroons, China Taffety, Tobine Lutestrings, white pealing Sattin, and English Persian; also fine Flanders Lace, Cambricks, clear, long, and printed Lawns, white and printed Calicoes, Muslins, Gullix, and Bag-Hollands, fine Tabby Stays, Girls Hoops, Gloves, Velvet and Silk laced Bonnets, Hair Hats, Womens Calimanco and Silk and Childrens Morocco Shoes, and all Sorts of Milinary Goods, fine Green Teas, and a great Variety of Fans and Mounts. As all these Goods are of the best Kind, and at the lowest Prices, we hope those who have favoured us with their Custom will not take amiss our dealing for ready Money only.
Frances and John Pearson Webb.

Frances Webb
GLOSSARY

Calico -

a fine plain weave cotton fabric, coarser than muslin; comes in many varieties and can be plain or printed.

Calimanco -

usually a worsted material with a fine gloss, woven in a satin twill; can also be made of worsted and silk or worsted and goat's hair; used for petticoats, shoes and bed hangings.

Chintz -

originally a specially designed painted or printed Indian cotton, which was sometimes glazed; later an English or French printed cotton, or cotton and linen.

Damask -

a reversible patterned fabric with the pattern woven in; originally a mixture of mohair and silk, intermixed in such a manner that that which is not satin weave on one side is satin on the other side. It was usually made of silk, silk and worsted, all worsted, or linen.

Gauze -

a delicate, transparent textile of open work weave. It has a gossamer-like appearance, and can be made of silk or silk and linen. It can be plain, brocaded or spotted or striped with satin or velvet.

Gullix, garlick, garlix -

a linen cloth used chiefly for men's shirts and household linens.

Kenting -

a fine, closely woven plain weave linen cloth, finer than Ghentish holland. Used for aprons, curtains, linings, napkins, tablecloths and jelly strainers.

Lawn -

a sheer, soft, plain weave fabric of linen or cotton; used for shirts and ruffles; varieties include long lawn and pistol lawn.

Taffety, taffeta -

a thin glossy silk with a wavy lustre; used for women's summer dresses, linings, headdresses, bed canopies, and for window curtains.

"Bouffantes"
c. 1785
HOOPS AND STAYS
The Pictorial of Fashion

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
April 18, 1766

CATHERINE RATHALL,
MILLINER,
LATELY arrived from London, at present in Fredericksburg, Virginia, has a large assortment of European and other GOODS, suitable for Ladies and Gentlemen, which she sells very cheap.

Among other things she has the best flowered and plain satins, flowered and plain modes, sarcenets, and Persians flowered, striped, and plain English gauze, from 5s. 9d. to 12s. a yard, great variety of blond, minionet, thread, and black lace, joining blonds for Ladies caps and handkerchiefs, black and white gauze handkerchiefs, wedding and other fans from 4s. 6d. to 30s. ready made stomachers and knots, a great variety of ribands, French beads and earrings, Ladies caps from 2s. 6d. to 25s. fly caps and lappets, egrets of all sorts, silk and leather gloves and mits, summer hats and cloaks, cardinals, French tippets, black gauze and catgut love riband for mournings, silk, thread, and cotton stockings, for Ladies and Gentlemen, Gentlemen's laced ruffles from 30s. to 10 l. bags for wigs and solitaires, Irish linens and tapers in variety, garnet and gold brooches, a variety of silver shoe buckles, in the newest fashion for Ladies and Gentlemen, with knee buckles for the latter, silver thimbles with steel bottoms, pencils in silver cases, enamelled nutmeg graters, best needles sorted in due proportion from the finest cambrick to the largest darning needles, in such variety as never before imported; with some articles of STATIONARY, viz. Black legers, memorandum and pocket books in great variety, and sundry articles too tedious to mention.

She also makes all sorts of MILLINERY, in the best and newest taste, for the following prices: Full dress suits at 11s. 6d. laced do. at 9s. 6d. plain do. at 7s. 6d. also washes and makes up all laces and gauzes, so as to be little inferiour to new.

As the said Catherine Rathall is but lately come into the country, and her continuance here very uncertain, she sells for ready money only, and at a very low advance; and as she is contented to make a reasonable profit, she assures those who shall favour her with their commands that the fall of the exchange shall be to their benefit. And she flatters herself her goods, and prices, will give general satisfaction; for as they were chosen by herself, and bought with ready money from the best hands, they are both good and reasonable.

N.B. At the same place may be had the genuine Dr. Anderson's pills.

The Marquise de Pompadour (1759)
by Francois Boucher
COLLAR and KNOTS
Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe
by Aileen Ribeiro

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Rind
February 19, 1767

Just Imported from LONDON, and to be SOLD BY
Catherine Rathell,
MILLINER of FREDERICKSBURG,
A great Variety of
GOODS of LADIES and GENTLEMEN;
among which are,

THREAD, blond, and black Laces; Gauzes, flowered and plain Satins; Cardinals; wedding and other Fans; a great Variety of Ribbands of the newest Patterns; Silk Gloves and Mits; Leather Gloves of all Sorts for Ladies and Gentlemen; superfine China Silk and India Cotton Hose for ditto; catguts, Italian and French Egrets; do Breast Flowers equal to Nature; Velvet Collars of all Colours; Gentlemens Lace Ruffles, fine Beaver Hats white and black, of the newest Fashion, with Gold Bands, Buttons, and double Loops; Hair Bags, and Solitaires; very neat stitched and bound Didsbury's Shoes and Pumps; Worsted and Cotton Hose from Children's Size to Men's; red, blue and black Pumps for Children from 1 to 10 years old; a large Quantity of neat white Skeleton and Scane Wires; Table and Tea Spoons, Sugar Tongs and Silver Buckles; with a Number of other Articles in Jewelry and Millinery too tedious to mention.

The present Scarcity of Cash induces her to attend a few Days at Williamsburg, during the Sitting of the next Assembly, from whence it will be more convenient for many Ladies and Gentlemen to furnish themselves than from this Town. The several Articles are so well chosen, and afford such a Variety, she ventures to recommend it to such Ladies and Gentlemen as want such for themselves or Friends to defer supplying themselves till her Arrival, when she flatters herself they will be no less pleased, than,
Their humble Servant,
CATHERINE RATHELL.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Rind
July 23, 1767

Fredericksburg, July 15, 1767

Just imported in the last Ships from London, a new and well chose Assortment of Goods, among which are,
RIBBANDS, Laces, Gauzes, Fly Caps and Lappets, Egrets, Silk and Leather Gloves and Mitts, a large Quantity of Ladies Hats, Bonnets and Cloaks, French Wax and Jet Bead Necklaces, red Morocco Leather Pocket-books, Silver mounted, with Instruments for Ladies and Gentlemen, fine printed Lawn Pocket Handkerchiefs, Variety of Silk Ditto, striped Satin for Gentlemens Waistcoats, both black and white fine Beaver Hats for Ditto, a Parcel of exceeding good Irish Linens, great Variety of Silver Shoe and Knee Buckles, Garnet and Bristol Stone Sleeve Buttons, with many other Articles in the Millinery and Jewellery Way, too tedious to mention. The above Goods were bought from the best Hands, and are to be sold at a reasonable Advance, but for ready Money only, by
CATHERINE RATHELL.

791 J. V. TISCHBEIN: Count Giech, 1756.
Nuremberg, Germanisches Nationalmuseum. (Museum photo)
WALKING STICKS
20,000 Years of Fashion by Francois Boucher

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
October 6, 1768

Just imported from London and selling by the Subscriber in Williamsburg, at a low advance, for ready money only, the following articles, viz.

FLOWERED, satin and spotted mode cardinals and cloaks, hats and bonnets, gauze and lace, plain, striped, and book muslin, fine thick cambrick and clear lawns, fine book muslin bordered handkerchiefs, a large and fashionable assortment of ribands, caps, egrets, plumes, feathers, and filets, exceeding fine lappet heads, a neat assortment of garnet and paste, hoop, and other rings, paste shoe, knee, and stock buckles, silver mounted morocco pocket books with instruments, and some very complete and secure with two locks, huswives for Ladies with instruments, boys satin caps of all sizes, white, black, and coloured, silk hose, fine India cotton do. different sorts of cotton and worsted do. boys and girls worsted do. Didsbury's best shoes and pumps for Gentlemen, red, blue, and yellow slippers, for do. Didsbury's best and neatest black and white satin and calimanco pumps for Ladies, a piece of exceeding good black paduasoy, a very neat and genteel assortment of wedding, mourning, second mourning, and other fans, bases for do. children's shoes of all sizes, artificial hair pins, breast flowers, equal in beauty to any ever imported, and so near resemble nature that the nicest eye can hardly distinguish the difference, coloured, white, and black silk French kid and lamb gloves and mits for Ladies, girls, and children, buck, doe, kid, lamb, Woodstock, wash leather, and white gloves for Gentlemen, black silk bags and roses for do. blond silk and cotton thread for working, sewing silks of all sorts, best English pound and paper pins, needles sorted, fine plaited stocks and stock tape, quilted petticoats, red cardinals, garlands and trimmings, walking sticks, canes and ratans, skeleton and skeign wire, three for a shilling, and many other articles too tedious to insert.

As all the above goods are fashionable, new and good, she hopes to meet with encouragement, which shall be most gratefully acknowledged by
CATHERINE RATHELL.

⸫At the same place LODGINGS for six Gentlemen.

N.B. She has on hand a few dozen of large and small felt hats, and some pieces of German and British osnabrugs, which she would be glad to dispose of by wholesale.

STOMACHER
Silver gilt lace, paper, floss silk, England, 1770s
Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg by Linda Baumgarten

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Rind
April 13, 1769

Just imported and selling by the Subscriber, the following ARTICLES, viz. WHITE sattin and lutestring, India and other chintzes, callicoes and ginghams, striped and plain muslins, book ditto, bordered handkerchiefs, cat-gut, flowered gauze aprons, cloaks, cardinals, hats and bonnets, a large and fashionable assortment of caps, ribbons, egrets, filets and breast flowers, fine beaver hats for Gentlemen, youths and boys ditto, blue, green and white fine riding ditto for Ladies, feathers for ditto, all sorts of gold bands, buttons and loops, black, blue, and buff super-fine silk pieces for Gentlemen's breeches, maccaroni waistcoats, the very best black, white and coloured China silk hose, the finest spun silk ditto, superfine India cotton ditto, both for Ladies and Gentlemen, fine minionet lace, flounced and laced casting handkerchiefs, very genteel stomachers and knots, some very neat paste necklaces and earrings, ditto of different colours , handsome earrings set with margarets, French pearl drop ditto, crooked tortoiseshell combs set with paste, plain ditto, small tortoise-shell pocket combs in cases, fine box, ivory and tapering ditto, paste shoe, knee and stock buckles, double gilt and polished steel ditto in sets, paste pins, hoops and other stone rings, chased and plain silver nutmeg graters, very neat enamelled ditto, pocket books, and Ladies house-wifes, with instruments, falling pearl necklaces, mock garnet, and jet bunches, Ivory cases with smelling bottles, and ribband measures, both large and small kid, lamb, and silk gloves and mitts for Ladies, white silk , brown thread, and all kinds of leather gloves for Gentlemen, Didsbury's neatest shoes, pumps and slippers for ditto, with other good London made ditto, Ladies sattin ditto, childrens ditto of all sizes, French and English beads, ditto jumps, neat white trimmings, new fashion ribbed ruffs, very fine pleated stocks, fine pocket handkerchiefs, light horsemen's caps for boys, plain sattin ditto, ostrich feathers, wedding, mourning, second mourning, and other genteel fans, fan cases, crosses set with margarets for young Ladies, stock tapes, Ladies riding sticks, blond silk and cotton thread for working, watch strings, finest Irish garters, garlands, walking canes, sewing silks, and tapes of all kinds, black pattern silk mitts at 4s. 6d. a pair, black sticking plaister, the best Bell and Lisle thread, skeleton and skeine wire, Perkins's specific dentrifice, well known for its great efficacy in whitening the teeth, and infallibly curing the scurvy in the gums, with directions how to use it, price 5 s. the pot; with sundry other articles too numerous to insert.

As this last importation consists of the best chose, genteelest, and most fashionable assortment she ever had, hopes to meet with good encourage in disposing of them; which shall be most thankfully acknowledged by
CATHERINE RATHELL.

P.S. She has a few good pair of womens stays, tabby fore parts, and fine ticking backs, which she would sell cheap to any storekeeper, with some other articles. And as she hopes to have it in her power to go home after the June court, to purchase a cargo against the October court, is determined to sell, but for ready money only.

Maryland Gazette
Green
September 7, 1769

CATHARINE RATHELL, Milliner, From LONDON, Has open'd Shop at the House of Mr. Wm. Whetcroft, Jeweller, in West-Street near the Town Gate, and has the following Goods to dispose of at a low Advance, for ready Money only, viz.

WHITE Sattin, India and other Chintzes, Calico, Ginghams, Muslin, Cat-Gut, flower'd Gauze Aprons, Cloaks, Cardinals, Hats, Bonnets, a fashionable Assortment of Caps, Egrets, Fillets, Breast Flowers, a large Assortment of fashionable Ribands, Hats for Youths and Boys, Riding Hats and Feathers for Ladies, Gold Bands, Buttons and Loops, Silk Pieces for Gentlemens Breeches, black, white, and coloured Silk Hose for Gentlemen, spun Silk ditto, superfine India Cotton ditto, both for Ladies and Gentlemen, Worsted and Cotton ditto for Children, a very neat Paste Necklace and Ear-Rings, French Bead Ear-Rings and Necklaces, Box and Ivory Combs, chased and plain Silver Nutmeg Graters, very neat enamelled ditto, Jet Bunches, Ivory Cases, with Smelling-Bottles, Riband Measurers, Kid, Lamb and Silk Gloves, and Mitts for Ladies, with all sorts of wedding, mourning and other Fans, Silk, brown Thread, Doe, Buck, Lamb, Woodstock, Wash-Leather, and white Gloves for Gentlemen, neat Children and Girls Shoes of all Sorts, white Trimmings, fashion'd Ribband Ruffs, very fine plaited Stocks and Stock Tape, Ladies Riding Sticks, Blond Silk, and Cotton Thread for Working, Watch Strings, Irish Garters, Garlands, Feather and other Muffs, Pocket Handkerchiefs, Sattin Caps for Boys, Sewing Silks, Threads and Tapes of all Kinds, Court Plaister, Skeleton and Skein Wire, with many other Articles .

"gold bands, buttons and loops"
(for gentlemen's hats)
Dress in Eighteenth Century England by Anne Buck

MARYLAND GAZETTE
Green
November 2, 1769

CATHERINE RATHELL, MILLINER,
FROM LONDON,
Has open'd Shop at the House of Mr. Wm. Whetcroft, Jeweller, in West-Street near the Town Gate, and has the following Goods to dispose of at a low Advance, for ready Money only, viz.

WHITE Satin, India and other Chintzes, Calico, Ginghams, Muslin, Cat-Gut, flower'd Gauze Aprons, Cloaks, Cardinals, Hats, Bonnets, a fashionable Assortment of Caps, Egrettes, Fillets, Breast Flowers, a large Assortment of fashionable Ribands, Hats for Youths and Boys, Riding Hats and Feathers for Ladies, Gold Bands, Buttons and Loops, Silk pieces for Gentlemens Breeches, black, white, and coloured Silk Hose for Gentlemen, spun Silk ditto, superfine India Cotton ditto, both for Ladies and Gentlemen, Worsted and Cotton ditto for Children, a very neat Paste Necklace and Ear-Rings, French Bead Ear-Rings and Necklaces, Box and Ivory Combs, chased and plain Silver Nutmeg Graters, very neat enamelled ditto, Jet Bunches, Ivory Cases, with Smelling-Bottles, Riband Measures, Kid, Lamb and Silk Gloves, and Mitts for Ladies, with all Sorts of wedding, mourning, and other Fans, Silk, brown Thread, Doe, Buck, Lamb, Woodstock, Wash-Leather, and white Gloves for Gentlemen, neat Shoes and Pumps for ditto, Childrens and Girls Shoes of all Sorts, white Trimmings, new fashion'd Riband Ruffs, very fine plaited Stocks and Stock Tape, Ladies Riding Sticks, Blond Silk, and Cotton Thread for working, Watch Strings, Irish Garters, Garlands, Feather and other Muffs, Pocket Handkerchiefs, Sattin Caps for Boys, Sewing Silks, Threads and Tapes of all Kinds, Court Plaister, Skeleton and Skein Wire, with many other Articles.

Maryland Gazette
Green
March 29, 1770

To be sold on very reasonable Terms, for ready Money or good Bills of Exchange, between Two and Three Hundred Pounds Sterling worth of European Goods, in very good Order, chiefly consisting of the following Articles, viz.

MUSLINS, Chintes, Clear Lawns, white Satin, Sewing Silks, Buck, Doe, Kid, Silk, and other Gloves, Ribbons, Fans, Threads, Tapes, some Millinery and several other Articles. An Invoice of the above Goods to be seen at Mr. Whetcrofts, Jeweller in Annapolis, who will treat with any one inclinable to purchase.

N.B. A sober Woman inclinable to go to Dublin, may have her Passage paid, enquire as above.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
October 10, 1771

Just IMPORTED from London, and to be SOLD for ready Money only, at the cheapest Rates, by the Subscriber, at her Shop where Mr. Ayscough lately lived, opposite to the South Side of the Capitol,
A GENTEEL Assortment of MERCERY, MILLINERY, JEWELLERY, &c. (Part of which consists of the under named Articles) of the newest Fashion, being chosen by herself, and purchased since July last, from the eminent Shops, and on the best Terms.

White Satins and Lustrings, with Trimmings suitable, Satin Cloaks and Bonnets wove in Imitation of Lace, plain and trimmed Silk Cloaks and Hats, the greatest Variety of Caps, Egrets, Plumes, and Fillets, Dresden Ruffles, Ranelagh Ruffs, Italian Flowers, Stomachers and Knots, Toupees and Curls, Childrens Sashes, Bonnets, Whisks and quilted Puddings, black Silk Aprons (much wore in London) white and coloured Satin quilted Coats, black and white Silk Breeches Patterns, Patent Net and other Hoods, from five Shillings to twelve and Sixpence, Ditto Aprons, Patent Net in the Piece for Ruffles and Handkerchiefs, Minionet Lace, white and coloured Head and Breast Flowers, Cambricks, narrow Edgings for Trimmings, a great Variety of Velvet, Silver, and other Ribands, Wires, Didsbury's Leather, coloured, Satin, and Stuff Shoes, white Satin and Queen's Silk Ditto, black, white, and coloured Silk Hose for Ladies and Gentlemen, Cotton Ditto, Mens and Boys fine Hats of the newest Fashion, Wig Cauls, Silk Purses, thin Bone and Packthread Stays for Children of three Months old and upwards, Gentlemens Flannel Waistcoats faced with Satin, single and double Nightcaps, furred Gloves, plain Ditto for Ladies and Gentlemen, Paste, Garnet, and Bead Earrings, Gold Wires, Paste, Mocho, and Garnet Necklaces and Roses, Silver and Pinchbeck Shoe and Knee Buckles, Ditto and Garnet and Silver Stock Buckles, Paste, Tortoiseshell, and Horn crooked Combs, plain and set Lockets, Paste, Garnet, and Gold Brooches, Paste Stay Hooks, Ditto and Garnet Sprigs and Pins, Silver bowed Scissors, Watches and Chains, Silver Teaspoons, Sugar Tongs, Nutmeg Graters, and Thimbles, neat Etwees, Toothpick Cases, Ivory and Tortoiseshell Toothpicks, Pocket Books with Instruments, Ass Skin Ditto, Travelling Shaving Cases complete, with Razors, Glass, &c. Jubilee Knives and Forks, Silver Cork Screws, Decanter Corks with Labels, Coral and Bibs, Silver Pap Boats, Silver Shoe Clasps for Children, Ivory Pocket Rules, Childrens Toys of all Sorts, Gold and Silver Hat-bands, Tooth Brushes, Ivory and Box Combs, Paste Combs from twelve and Sixpence upwards, Black Pins, Walking Sticks and Sword Canes, Riding Whips, a very great Variety, &c. &c.

Also several PATENT MEDICINES, particularly Hemet (Dentist to his Majesty) his Essence of Pearl, and Pearl Dentrifice, for preserving and cleaning both Teeth and Gums; an Ointment for the Itch, and all scorbutick Disorders of ever so long Standing, without Confinement or Regimen; likewise fine IVORY BLACKING CAKES, for Shoes, in universal Repute, Shaving Powder, with many other Articles too numerous to mention.
CATHERINE RATHELL.

⸫ As it was impossible to get a House on the main Street, the Subscriber hopes the little Distance will make no Difference to her former Customers.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
January 30, 1772

Williamsburg, January 30, 1772

Having received from London, on Commission, a parcel of neat goods, and as disposing of them in my Store will interfere with both my Time and Business, I purpose selling them every Evening, during the Sitting of the Assembly, till all are sold. They consist chiefly of the neatest and newest fashioned flowered, spotted, and plain Cloaks, Hats, and Bonnets, of different Sizes and Colours, white and coloured Silk quilted Coats fine black Calimanco Ditto, fine India Chintz, Pattern Calicoes and Cottons with or without Borders, Book Muslins, Teresas, a large Assortment of handsome new fashioned Silver, Gold, flowered, and plain Riband, French Bead Necklaces and Earrings, Mens fine Hats, Satin Shoes, Ladies neatest Thanet Riding Hats elegantly trimmed, with Turbans, Feathers, &c. Boys Beaver and Satin Whimsey Caps, quilted Satin Puddings for Children, Ivory, Box, Tortoiseshell, and Horn Combs by the Dozen, Silk Laces, Pins, Powder Bags and Puffs, with new Musick for the Harpsichord, Flute and Violin, Writing Paper, &c. &c.

She continues to sell, at her Store, as usual, a very neat Assortment of Millinery, Haberdashery, Hosiery, and Jewellery, the Goodness and Fancy of which she hopes will be a sufficient Recommendation to her former Friends and Customers; to whom she returns her most grateful Acknowledgements for the extraordinary Encouragement she has hitherto met with, and shall make it her Study to merit a Continuance of their Favours, by importing the newest and best Goods to sell at a reasonable Advance, by their obedient Servant,
Catherine Rathell.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Rind
February 6, 1772

WILLIAMSBURG, January 23, 1772.

I HAVE just received from London a parcel of neat GOODS on commission, and as disposing of them in my store will interfere too much with both my time and business, I purpose selling them by auction every evening during the sitting of the Assembly, till all are sold. They consist of the neatest Flowered, spotted, and plain, white and coloured satin cloaks, hats and bonnets of different sizes, white and coloured silk quilted coats, fine calimanco ditto, fine real India calicoes and cottons, with and with-out borders, and beautiful colours, some handsome plain and coloured terezas, a large assortment of gold, silver, flowered and plain ribbands, French bead necklaces and ear-rings, mens fine hats, satin shoes, Ladies neatest Thanet riding hats, elegantly bound and trimmed, quilted satin puddings for children, ivory, box, tortoiseshell and horn combs, by the dozen, silk laces, pins, powder bags and puffs, with some new music, songs, country dances, and cotillions, set for the harpsichord, flute, and violin, writing paper, with many other articles.

She continues to sell in her store, as usual, a very neat assortment of millinery, haberdasher, hosiery, and jewellery, the goodness and fancy of which she hopes will be a sufficient recommendation to all her former friends and customers; to whom she begs leave to return her most grateful acknowledgments for the extraordinary encouragement she has hitherto met with, and shall make it her study to merit a continuance of their favours by importing the newest and best goods, to sell at a reasonable advance, by their obedient humble servant.
C. RATHELL.

THERESE (Hood)
Galerie des Modes
Eighteenth-Century French Fashion Plates
Stella Blum, ed.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
April 23, 1772

Just imported from LONDON, and selling by the Subscriber,

A LARGE Assortment of MILLINERY, and other GOODS, consisting of the neatest Hats, Cloaks, Bonnets, Teresas, and Whisks, Caps, Hoods, and Fillets, worked Linen, white Satin, and Lustring Stomachers and KNots, Italian Flowers, Sashes and quilted Puddings for Children, black and white Silk Aprons, white and coloured Satin and Sarcenet quilted Coats, Patent Net Hoods, flowered Patent Aprons and Pieces for Ruffles and Handkerchiefs, equal in Beauty to joining Lace, fine white and black Silk and Worsted Breeches Patterns, Breast Flowers, Muslin, Cambrick, Gauze, and Catguts, white and coloured Satin, Queen's Silk and Stuff Shoes, white and coloured Silk Hose, ribbed Thread and Cotton Do. Gloves and Glove Strings, Silk Mits at 4s. a Pair, and new fashioned Hair Collars, Boys trimmed Satin Caps, Ladies newest fashioned riding Hats bound and trimmed with Turbans and Feathers, new Musick, both Dances and Songs, Gentlemens fine Beaver Hats, thin Bone and Packthread Stays, fine Night Caps, French Beads and Bugles, Stone, Silver, Pinchbeck, and gilt Buckles, set Combs, plain Do. of all Sorts, Stone and Gold Brooches, Stone and other Pins, Marcasite Lockets, Silver bound Scissors, Silver Teaspoons, Tea Tongs, Pap Boats and Spunge Eggs, Etwee Cases and Pocket Books, Travelling Shaving Cases and Shaving Powder, Silver Screws and Shoe Clasps, Fruit Knives, Pocket Rules, Gold and Silver Hatbands, Canes and very neat Riding Whips, Toys for Children, Bead and Marcasite Earrings, Paste Do, with and without Drops, plaited Shoe Buckles, bordered and spotted Gauze Handkerchiefs, Hair Nets and Powder Bags, Watch Papers, Fillagree Trinkets, Inkpots, Fiddle Strings, with many other Articles too numerous to mention.
C. RATHELL.

Just IMPORTED, in the Unity, Captain Goosley, a large Assortment of fine GOODS, and to be sold by the Subscriber, namely:
PASTE Necklaces and Earrings, fine Paste Stomacher and Sleeve Knots, Buttons in Sets, Paste Sprigs, Garnet set in Gold, plain Gold and Paste Lockets, plain Gold and Paste Stock Buckles, Paste Shoe Buckles, Mocho Buttons set in Gold, plain and labelled Decanter Corks, Silver mounted chased and plain Corals and Bells, Tortoiseshell Toothpick Cases, Smelling Bottles in Ditto, neat Paper Snuff Boxes, fine Steel Scissors, Silver Pencil Cases, Silver Shoe Buckles, Silver Thimbles, plain Gold and Pebble Sleeve Buttons, Sword Canes, Shoes, Wax Tapers on Brass Frames, very useful for Merchants, and many other Articles too tedious to insert.
C. RATHELL .

Shagreen and gold
ETUI

Gold and Enamel Egg ETUI and Instruments
The Book of Costume by Millia Davenport

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
October 22, 1772

Just IMPORTED in the last Ships from London, and to be SOLD by the Subscriber at her Store opposite the Raleigh in Williamsburg,
A VERY large and neat Assortment of MILLINERY AND JEWELLERY, consisting of white Satin and Lustrings, Trimmings for ditto, black and coloured Hats and Bonnets, Silk Petticoats, Wedding Fans and Breast Flowers, Queen's and Satin Shoes, a new Assortment of Patent Net Hoods, Muslin, Gauze, Catgut and Wire, Dresden worked Linen, quilted Satin Childbed Baskets and Pincushions, a large Assortment of Ribands, ribbed and plain Silk , Cotton, and Thread Hose, Childrens small Cotton ditto , Patent Net Aprons, and Pieces for Ruffles, &c., Silk Gloves and Mits Ladies Dress Tuppees and Curls, Necklaces and Earrings, Garnet ditto set in Gold, Paste Sprigs and Pins, Paste Combs, Garnet, Paste, and plain Gold Lockets, Ladies Paste Breast Buttons and Stay Hooks, Garnet Stock Buckles set in Gold, plain Gold, Paste, and Silver ditto, exceeding neat Shoe and Knee Paste, gilt, plaited, Pinchbeck, and Silver ditto, enamelled and plain Gold Sleeve Buttons, Mocho and Pebble ditto set in Gold and Silver, plain and labelled Silver topped Decanter Corks, chased and plain Corals and Bells, Smelling Bottles with Silver mounted Tortoiseshell Cases, Toothpick Cases in Ditto, Silver Pencil Cases, Paste Bows and Crosses, Silver fluted Butter Ladles, plated Soop ditto, plated Candlesticks, Chamber ditto with Extinguisher, &c. Tutenague Salt Cellars, Snuffers and Snuff Pans, plated ditto, plated Table Crosses Silver Salt Shovels, Ladies Silver and other Etwees with Instruments, neat Riding Glasses set in Mother of Pearl, Tortoiseshell, and Silver, Tambour, Gold, and coloured Sword Knots, Looker's Razors, Gold and Silver Hatbands, Boys Silk and Beaver Caps, Ladies and Gentlemens fine Beaver Hats, Riding Whips for ditto, Silver Fruit Knives and Thimbles, Silver and Ivory Bodkins and Toothpicks, Watch Trinkets, Hunting Knives and Forks, Irish Penknives, Silver Teaspoons, Tea Tongs and Nutmeg Graters, gilt Leather for Doors, a very great Variety of Morrocco and Velvet newfashioned Pocket Books, Soap Boxes and Brushes, a large Quantity of Didsbury's Mens, Womens and Childrens Shoes, Flannel under Jackets laced with Satin, Toys, Buck, Doe, Kid, Lamb, and Fawn Gloves and Mits of all Sizes, Sashes for Children, fine India working Cotton, Hemet (Dentist to her Majesty) his Essence of Pearl and Pearl Powder for the Teeth and Gums, with proper Brushes, Nail Nippers, Ivory and Box Combs, Shaving Powder, Sword Canes and Walking Sticks, Travelling Razor Cases, Childrens Stays and quilted Puddings, with a Number of other Articles, which will be sold on reasonable Terms by
C. RATHELL.

N.B. She purposes, if a House can be got, to reside at Petersburg from the End of this Court until April, where Ladies and Gentlemen who please to favour her with their Commands may be supplied with the above Articles.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
October 21, 1773Just IMPORTED, and SElLING by the Subscriber, at her Store opposite the Raleigh, a large Assortment of MILLINERY and JEWELLERY, &c. on the most reasonable Terms, namely,
WHITE Satins and Lustrings, Satin Cloaks and Bonnets, Dresden Ruffles, Stomachers and Knots, Italian Flowers, Rolls and Curls, quilted Puddings, black and white Silk Aprons, Satin and Sarcenet quilted Petticoats, Patent Net Aprons and Hoods, Breast Flowers, Lawns and Cambricks, Silk Breeches Patterns, Ribands, a great Variety of Didsbury Shoes, white and coloured Silk Hose, Silk and Leather Gloves, Mens and Boys Hats, Silk Purses, Childrens Stays, Flannel under Waistcoats, under Stockings, Nightcaps, Boys Hussar Caps and Feathers, Irish Garters, Wafers, Freemasons Sashes, Satin and Queen's Silk Shoes, Tambour Sword Knots, Table Crosses and Salts, Paste Stay Hooks, bordered Cambrick and India Silk Pocket Handkerchiefs, Buck, Woodstock, Silk, and other Gloves, Trimmings of all Sorts, Gauze Catguts, Blond and Thread Lace, Thread and Cotton Hose, Christening Baskets, Childrens Shoes and Stockings, white and other Fans.
Paste and Bead Necklaces and Earrings; Gold Wire; Stone, Silver, London gilt, and black and blue Shoe and Knee Buckles; Gold, Paste, Silver, and black Stock Buckles; Combs, Lockets, Paste and Garnet Sprigs and Pins, Soup Ladles, Salt Shovels, Knives, Scissors, Steel Watch Chains, Pocket Books with Tweezer Cases, Toothpick Cases and Brushes, Decanter Corks with Labels, Corals and Bells, Shoe Clasps for Children, black Pins, Sword Canes, Riding Hats and Feathers, Pugh's famous Eye Water for weak or sore Eyes, Snuff Boxes, Shaving Boxes, Sewing Silks, &c. &c. with a Number of other Articles too tedious to insert.
C. RATHELL.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
May 5, 1774 — Purdie Dixon

Just imported from London, and sold by the Subscriber, at her Store opposite the Raleigh in Williamsburg, on reasonable Terms, for ready Money only,
A WELL chosen Assortment of the neatest Goods, consisting of fine Thread and Blond Lace white Satin and Lustring, blue Satin and Sarcenet Petticoats, white Do. for Weddings, Satin and Queen Silk Shoes, Muslin, Gauze, Catgut, and Wire, worked Linen, Ribands, plain and ribbed Silk, Cotton and Thread Stockings, small Do. for Children, Patent Net Aprons, equal in Beauty to Joining Lace, Silk Gloves and Mits, Rolls and Curls, Tambour Sword Knots, Boys Beaver and Hussar Caps, Ladies Riding Hats, Feathers, and Whips, Childrens Sashes and Stays, a large Quantity of Didsbury's Shoes, Sheneal, fine Chip and Cane Hats, Fans, Cloaks, Gauze Handkerchiefs, Purses, Bags and Puffs, Pearl for Work, Tureen, Punch, and Pap Ladles, Stone, Silver, Gilt, and Pinchbeck Buckles, both Shoe and Knee Paste, Garnet, Gold, and Black Stock Do, India Plate Salts, Do. Snuffers and Snuff Pans, Silver Tea Spoons, Tea Tongs, Salt Shovels, Do. Coral and Bells, Paste, Marcasite, Pearl, and Bead Necklaces and Earrings, Gold Wires, Silver bowed Scissors and Silver tipped Sheaths, Lancet Cases, Watch Chains and Keys, Combs, Pocket Books and Etwee Cases, Freemason and other Brooches, Paste Sprigs and Pins, Tooth Brushes, fine Irish Wafers, Sword Canes and Pen Knives, black Bags and Roses, black Pins, Stay Hooks, Thimbles, Silver Shoe Clasps, Fruit Knives, Dolls and other Toys, with many other Articles too numerous to insert
. C. RATHELL.

N.B. At the same Place may be had an exceeding fine SILVER WATCH, capped, and runs on Diamonds, also a beautiful GOLD WATCH, with Gold Hands, and an engraved Case.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
October 20, 1774 Supplement

Just Imported, and to be SOLD by the Subscriber in Williamsburg, the following Articles, viz.

IRISH Linens, Dark Grounded fine Irish Calicoes, White Satin, Minionet, Blond, and Black Lace, Silk Petticoats, Satin, Stuff, and Leather Didsbury's Shoes, Gauze, Catgut, and Ribands, Silk, Cotton, and Thread Stockings, Sheneal of all Colours, Net Hoods, Patent Net Do. and Aprons, Rolls and Curls, Ladies and Gentlemens Gloves, Tambour and Sword Knots, Gilt and other Writing Paper, Under Worsted and Thread Stockings, a large Assortment of Ladies elegant Caps, fine Irish Garters and Wafers, Black Silk Patterns, Violet Hair Powder, Powder Puffs and Hair Pins, Fine Lawn and Silk Pocket Handkerchiefs, Wash Balls, White and Coloured Trimmings for Ladies Sacks, Freemason Sashes and Brooches, Satin Cloaks, Hats and Bonnets, Dresden Worked Ruffles, Children's Stockings, Shaving Powder, Fans, French Beads, Silk Gloves and Mits, Childrens Shoes and Stays, Flannel Waistcoats, New Rose Bags, Paste Necklace, Earrings, Sprigs, and Pins, Pearl, Garnet, Paste, and Plain Gold Lockets, Sets of Paste Buttons for Ladies Stomachers and Sleeve Knots, Foilstone, Paste, Silver, Pinch-beck, and Mourning Buckles Paste and Silver Stock and Knee Buckles, Gold and Pebble Sleeve Buttons, Coral and Bells, Silver Teaspoons, Salt Shovels, Punch Ladles, Tea Tongs and Thimbles, Ladies Riding Hats and Whips, Tooth-pick Cases, Inside and Outside Tooth Brushes, Pruning, Office, Pen and Travelling Knives Printing Types with double Sets of Letters and Figures, Seals and Trinkets, Watch Chains, Strings, and Keys, Diamond Pencils, Sword Canes and Rattans, Violins, Ass Skin Memorandum Books, Pocket Books with Instruments, Silk Purses, Cotton Night Caps and Hair Nets, Silk Laces, Dolls, Toys, and many other Things too numerous to insert. The above Goods are to be sold on reasonable Terms, for ready Money, by
C. RATHELL.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Dixon [and Hunter]
February 25, 1775

Just come to Hand, and to be Sold at my Store in Williamsburg, for Cash only,
A large and well chosen ASSORTMENT of
IRISH Linens, Ladies' black and other coloured Silk quilted Petticoats, Didsbury's neat black Calamanco Pumps; some white figured and striped Lustrings; Ladies' and Gentlemen's Silk, Thread, and Cotton Stockings; Men's spun Silk, gray Thread, and Worsted Ditto; some Pieces of Beautiful coloured Irish Muslins; fine Buff coloured Dimity, suitable for Ladies' Riding Dresses; with many other Articles not enumerated.
C. RATHELL.

N.B. At the same Place may be had a Parcel of LOAF SUGAR.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Dixon — April 22, 1775
Pinckney — April 20, 1775

To be SOLD by the Subscriber, at her Store in Williamsburg,
A large and well chosen Assortment of
GOODS,
WHICH CONSIST AS FOLLOWS, VIZ.
MINIONET and blond Lace and Edgings, white Satin and Lustring, a number of black, white, and other coloured Silk Petticoats, Patent Net Aprons and Hoods, superfine Fancy and Dress Caps, Stomachers and Knots, Tambour Muslin, Waistcoats and Sword Knots, white, coloured, and raw Silk Stockings, brown Thread and Cotton Stockings, black Silk ditto, Cane and Silk Hats, French Flowers for trimming ditto, Silk Gloves and Mits, Leather and brown Thread ditto, fine stamped Irish Muslins for Ladies Gowns, which are remarkable for their beautiful Colours, Silk and Lawn Pocket Handkerchiefs, Salmon coloured plain and striped Dimities, Ladies Riding Hats and Feathers, Silk Purses, Wire Gauze, and ribbed Catgut, Boys Caps and Feathers, India Cotton for Work, Rolls and Curls, Children's Shoes and Stockings, Satin Cloaks and Teresas, Fans, Garnet set in Gold, plain Gold and Paste Brooches and Lockets, set Combs, Paste Bows, Crosses, Sprigs, and Pins, plain Gold, Paste, and Silver Stock Buckles, Marcasite and Paste Necklaces and Earrings, Gold Wires, Diamond and other Pencils, Silver bowed Scissors and French Sheaths, Thimbles, Watch Chains, Lancet Cases, Silver Shoe Clasps, Tea Tongs and Salt Shovels, a Silver Tea-spoon, Tray, and Pap Boat, an exceeding good Silver Watch to be sold at 50 per Cent. Men's fine Hats and Didsbury's Shoes, Boxes of Printing Types and Ink for marking Books, and Linen, black, Pinchbeck, and Silver Shoe Buckles, Ass Skin Memorandum Books, Morocco Pocket ditto, Pocket Knives and Forks, Pruning and Pen ditto, a second Hand Guittar, Children's Stays and Sashes, Watch Seals, Keys, and Strings, black Bags and Roses, Tureen and Punch Ladles, Sword Canes, Stocks, and Picktooth Cases, a large Quantity of Irish Linen, with some Table Cloths and Towels, Wash Balls, a few Dozen of neat flowered Wine Glasses, Patent Blacking, Dolls and other Toys, with many other Articles.

At the same Place may be had a Parcel of LOAF SUGAR.

As I purpose going to England as soon as I dispose of my Goods (ill Liberty of Importation is allowed) I am under the Necessity of not parting with a single Shilling's Worth without Cash; and I request, as a Favour, that all who are indebted to me will pay off their Accounts this Meeting, and all Persons having demands against me are desired to call immediately for their Money.
CATHERINE RATHELL.

Francis Wheatley
Four times of the Day: Night
1799
Paintings of the British Social Scene
by E.D.H. Johnson
CHILDBED BASKET

Catherine Rathell
GLOSSARY

Bags and roses, hair bags and roses -

square black silk bags for wigs drawn in at the nape of the neck with a running string, concealed by a stiff black bow; worn with rosette decorations.

Bands, buttons and loops -

trim for men's hats; the loops went over the buttons and could be let down during a rain storm and put back up afterwards.

Book muslin -

so-called because some of the finer calicoes were folded like books before being sold. Buke muslin, also corrupted into book muslin, is sold in a plain, clear, soft, and un-stiffened state, or hard and dressed to be used for tambour embroidery.

Box comb -

a comb made of boxwood.

Bugles -

long oval beads made of colored glass, often black.

Cardinal -

cloak with a hood, often red.

Catgut -

a plain open weave linen or cotton fabric, in which the warp and weft are twisted and stiffened; used for embroidery, and for lining and stiffening garments.

Childbed baskets -

large baskets stuffed and lined with decorative hangings on the outside; used as beds for babies.

Chip hats -

hats made from coarsely woven straw or wooden strips.

Collars -

a ribbon necklace, often pleated and/or decorated.

Corals and bells -

a coral teether with bells for babies.

Dimity -

a stout cotton cloth which is ornamented in the loom either with stripes or fanciful figures.

Dresden work -

a type of embroidery with drawn fabric work on fine muslin; used on ruffles, aprons and handkerchiefs.

Etwee - etui -

small case containing instruments, such as perfume bottles, scissors, razors, rulers, pencils and ivory writing tablets.

Fillets -

gauze or muslin bands tied around the head, and trimmed with flowers or embroidery.

Fly caps -

short for butterfly. Small decorative caps that were shaped like butterflies and pinned on top of the head.

92

Foilstone -

a gemstone or paste gem with a thin leaf of metal placed behind it to heighten its brilliance or strengthen its color.

Heads -

headdresses.

Housewives, huswives -

a long cloth piece with several compartments for sewing notions, such as needles, thimble, and hanks of thread for mending, darning and sewing on buttons. These were rolled up for storage.

Hussar -

a type of riding hat.

Jumps -

a loose, lightly boned bodice worn instead of stays.

Knots -

bows.

Lappets -

long streamers attached to a cap. They could either hang down the back or be pinned up on the crown.

Marcasite -

an ornament of crystalized iron pyrite, polished steel, or white metal.

Margarets -

pearls.

Mitts -

a covering for the arm and part of the hand, with the fingers left free.

Osnaburg, oznabrig, oznabrug -

coarse unbleached linen or hempen cloth used for clothing for the lower classes, and also for sacking and bagging.

Paduasoy -

a rich, heavy silk tabby with a self-colored pattern, and usually brocaded; was often corded.

Pap boats -

boat-shaped serving utensil for soft food for babies or invalids.

Paper pins -

a paper of straight pins.

Pinchbeck -

an imitation gold made of copper and zinc, named after its inventor.

Plaited -

pleated.

Powder bags -

a small bag with strings, used by hairdressers to carry hair powder when visiting clients to dress their hair.

Riband measurers -

ribbon measuring tapes.

93

Ruffs -

a narrow close-set frill of lace or lawn, sometimes wired, worn around the neck, leaving the decolletage uncovered.

Second Mourning -

second period of mourning; usually white and black or white and purple, instead of all black or black with a little white.

Set -

Jewelry with stones or pearls set in it.

Solitaire -

a black tie worn over a stock, almost always with a bag wig, but occasionally with a pigtail wig. It was a length of broad black ribbon tied to the running-string of the bag behind, the long ends then being draped around the neck and arranged in front in various ways.

Stay Hooks -

silver set with stones, hooked to the front of the stays, and used for suspending a watch chain.

Tambour muslin -

muslin that has been stiffened, so it is easy to use for tambour embroidery.

Teresa, Theresa, Tereza -

a large loose hood or scarf, not attached to the cloak. It was usually made of taffeta or light gauze, and drawn over the head for outdoor wear. Sometimes tied over the indoor cap.

Tippet -

a style of short cloak, often edged with fur.

Tupee, toupee -

an artificial lock of hair, or a curl.

Wash ball -

complexion soap made in a ball.

Whisk -

a broad cape-like collar, usually made of muslin trimmed with lace, and worn with low-cut gowns.

Wig Caul -

net foundation to which the wig hair is secured.

BODICE
Possibly called a WAISTCOAT or JUMPS
Eighteenth-Century Costume at Williamsburg by Linda Baumgarten

Virginia Gazette (Purdie-Dixon)
October 10, 1766

JUST IMPORTED, And sold by the subscriber in WILLIAMSBURG, A GENTEEL Assortment of MILLINERY GOODS, viz. Fashionable caps, Italian caps, egrets and fillets, breast flowers, turbans and tippets, best French bead, pearl and jet necklaces, earrings, minionet and blonde lace, blond net, yard and yard and half wide book muslins, fine thick muslin, plain and spotted gauze, fashionable ribands and trimmings, black love ribands, handkerchiefs, and egrets, black fans, black mittens, French and glazed kid and lamb gloves and mittens, white fans and white shoes, floss and netting silk, cotton thread, skeleton and skein wire, calash bonnets, &c.
JANE HUNTER

⸫Fans mounted and all sorts of Millinery made up in the newest fashion.

CALASH

HATS — 1785
"hats and bonnets in the newest taste"
20,000 Years of Fashion by Francois Boucher

Just IMPORTED, and to be SOLD at the lowest prices,
A GENTEEL ASSORTMENT OF
MILLINERY,
CONSISTING OF
FASHIONABLE ribands, suits of blond lace, caps, fillets, stomachers and sleeve knots, tippets, breast flowers, egrets, India pearl, French bead, and jet necklaces, earrings and egrets, fine edgings, pearl, Jacob's ladder, doubled edged joining, and other minionet laces, blond and black do. plain and figured gauzes, parisnet, fine catgut, white crape, great choice of fine thick and book muslins, lawns, cambrick, long lawn, fashionable trimmings, white and coloured fans, black silk gloves and mittens, leather do. fine cotton and French thread, skeleton and skeign wire, paste hair pins and shoe buckles, calash and other bonnets and hats. Also a great variety of fan mounts.

The subscriber having a sister just arrived from LONDON, who understands the millinery business, she hopes to carry it on to the satisfaction of those who shall favour them with their commands. They have imported all the materials for making hats and bonnets, in the newest taste; where Ladies may be supplied on the shortest notice, by
Their humble servants,
M. & J. HUNTER.

Virginia Gazette
Purdie and Dixon
October 1, 1767.

Virginia Gazette (Purdie-Dixon)
October 20, 1768 Just imported in the Bristol, Capt. Young, from London, and sold by the Subscriber in Williamsburg,
A GENTEEL assortment of MILLINERY, consisting of fine minionet laces, edging, joining, a double edged and Lappet do. blond and black do, purl and Jacob's ladder, real garnet, best French wax, wax pearl, India pearl and jet necklaces, earrings and egrets. Italian and silver do. best Italian and white breast flowers, paste and artificial pins, stomachers and sleeve knots, a variety of fashionable caps and ribands, plain, flowered, and striped gauzes, fashionable trimmings, catgut, black silk, and leather gloves and mittens, white, coloured, and black fans, white satin shoes, white lustring, plain and sprigged cloak satins, white sprigged modes, fringe for mourning, black, white, and coloured bugles, great choice of muslins, white silk stockings, a variety of fan mounts and toys, and many other things too tedious to mention.
JANE HUNTER.

Virginia Gazette (Purdie-Dixon)
October 24, 1771 Just IMPORTED in the NANCY, Captain BARRON, and to be SOLD on the most reasonable Terms, by the Subscriber, in Williamsburg,
A GENTEEL Assortment of MILLINERY, SILKS, and JEWELLERY. Fine Mechlin, Brussels, Minionet, Blond, and black Lace and Edgings, joining and double edged Ditto, cheap Thread Edgings for Trimmings, flowered, white, and coloured Satin Petticoats, a great Variety of set Necklaces, Earrings, Sprigs, Lockets, Buckles, and Combs, Paste, Shell, Marcasite, plain Tortoiseshell, and Horn Combs, a great Variety of fashionable Ribands, Caps, Fillets, Stomachers, and Fans, French Pearl Wax, Pearl, Jet, Garnet, Coral, and Agate Necklaces, Earrings and Sprigs, fine Italian Flowers, Breast Ditto, Ladies and Gentlemens Silk and Leather Gloves of various Sorts, Gold Bands, Buttons, and Loops, striped and plain Muslin Handkerchiefs, plain and figured Gauze, Gauze Aprons, fine dark grounded Cottons, Hats and Bonnets, Satin Shoes, Mens Gresham's Ditto, Etwee Cases, Silver Thimbles, Ladies white Silk and Cotton Hose, Gentlemens white, black, and coloured ribbed and plain Ditto, Hair Rolls, Net Hoods, a great Variety of Tapes, a Piece of fine Cotton Bed Furniture, Chintz Colours, &c. &c.
JANE CHARLTON.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
May 7, 1772 Just IMPORTED in Captain WOODFORD, and to be SOLD on reasonable Terms by the Subscriber, in Williamsburg,
A NEAT Assortment of JEWELLERY and MILLINERY, namely, Paste Shoe Knots, Ditto Shoe, Knee and Stock Buckles, Marcasite and Paste Necklaces and Earrings, French Bead and Jet Ditto set with Marcasite, enamelled, Garnet set in Gold, plain Gold and Marcasite in Silver, Lockets, Paste and Marcasite Crosses, Paste Cocque de Pearl and Marcasite Sprigs, Gold Wire Earrings, French Bead, Pearl, Agate, and Garnet Necklaces and Earrings, fine Minionet, Brussels, Mechlin, and Blond Lace, Italian Flower and Riband Stomachers and Sleeve Knots, Suits of Childbed Linen, Egrets, Breast Flowers, Nosegays, Fancy, laced and Gauze Caps, Cambrick, Lawn, Gauze, Catguts, fine Book and thick Muslin, Gauze Aprons and Handkerchiefs, Gold Bands, Buttons, and Loops, set Combs, Plain Tortoiseshell and Horn Ditto, Gresham's white and coloured Satin Pumps, white and black Silk Gloves and Mits, Kid and Lamb Ditto, Boys blue Satin Caps, white and coloured Silk Hose, Cotton Ditto, white Satins and Silks, coloured Silks, Trimming for Ditto, &c. &c.
JANE CHARLTON.

Scarlet Broadcloth Hooded Cloak.
Two Centuries of Costume in America 1620-1820 by Alice Morse Earle

Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg by Linda Baumgarten

"Cloaks…made in the newest Fashion."

Virginia Gazette (Purdie-Dixon)
October 15, 1772

Just imported in the last Ships from London, and to be Sold on reasonable Terms by the Subscriber in Williamsburg.

A Great Variety of fashionable figured white Lustrings, rich plain white Satin, flowered ditto, Brocades, striped and plain Lustrings, white and coloured Persians, white and black Cloak Satin, ditto Bonnets and Cloaks, ditto Mode, white and coloured Satin Petticoats, black Calimanco ditto, Gresham's white and coloured Satin Shoes, black Calimanco ditto, Blond Dress Caps, Fancy ditto, plain Gauze ditto, Suits of Blond Lace, Brussels, Mechlin, and Minionet Lace, Thread and Blond Edgings, Lappet Lace, white and black Blond Lace, of various Kinds, Riband Stomachers and Sleeve Knots, Italian Flowers ditto, Patent Net, ditto Hoods, rich Suits of Dresden Work, fine Suits of Childbed Linen, Robes, James, white Satin Baskets, India Dimity ditto, Pincushions and Lines, a large Assortment of fashionable Ribands, Ladies and Gentlemens Silk and Cotton Hose, Paste Necklaces and Earrings. French Bead, Jet, and Garnet ditto, Shoe, Knee, and Stock Paste Buckles, Paste Sprigs, Marcasite and Shell ditto, Paste Combs, plain Tortoiseshell and Horn ditto, plain Gold Earrings, Garnet ditto, plain Gold Lockets, Garnet ditto, Ladies white and coloured Kid and Lamb Gloves and Mits, black and White Silk ditto, Childrens Cotton Hose, ditto white, black and blue Caps, white Feathers for ditto, red Morocco Shoes, white and coloured Fans, fine Book Muslin, thick ditto, striped bordered Muslin Handkerchiefs, flowered and striped Gauze Aprons, plain Gauze, long Lawns, Cambrick, fine dark grounded Cottons, white and coloured Trimmings, Cotton Thread, Lisle and Ounce ditto, Tapes, Bindings, Bobbin, &c.
JANE CHARLTON

⸫Cloaks, Bonnets, and all Sorts of Millinery, made in the newest Fashion.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
April 22, 1773

Just IMPORTED from London, and to be SOLD by the Subscriber, in Williamsburg,
A NEW Assortment of MILLINERY of the most fashionable Kind, namely: Caps, Stomachers, Suits of Blond, Fans, Ribands, Gloves, and Minionet and Brussels Lace and Edgings, Blond and black Do, Joining Do. a Variety of genteel white Lustrings figured and plain, white flowered Satin, coloured, plain and striped Lustring, black Mantua, Satin Petticoats, Ladies and Gentlemens Gresham and Didsbury Shoes, Childrens Shoes, Silk and Cotton Stockings, Childrens Do. Boys black and blue Caps, Ladies Cloaks, Bonnets, and Hats. Yard wide fine Book Muslins, Yard and a Half wide Do. fine Jackanet Do. of both Kinds, striped Border Muslin Handkerchiefs, Gauze Aprons and Handkerchiefs, plain and flowered Gauzes and Catgut, Paste Bows, Necklaces, and Earrings, Shoe, Knee, and Stock Paste Buckles, Paste and Marcasite Sprigs, Paste Combs, plain Do. plain Gold and set Lockets, French Bead Necklaces and Earrings, Gold Bands, Buttons and Loops, Silver Stomachers and Sleeve Knots, Silver-Blond Lace, India Persians, Net Hoods, Cambricks, Lawns, and Long Lawns, fine Childbed Linen, Baskets and Chimney Linens, Diaper and Corded Dimity, Purl, Cotton Thread, French Do. Hair Rolls and Curls, &c. &c.
JANE CHARLTON.

⸫ All Kinds of MILLINERY made in the NEWEST FASHION.

Virginia Gazette (Rind)
October 21, 1773 Just imported, and to be SOLD by the subscriber in Williamsburg,
A NEW assortment of MILLINERY, and other goods, viz. white satting and lustring, coloured lustrings, striped ditto, Brussells, minionet, and blond laces, edgings, caps, stomachers, fans, gloves, and ribbands, a variety of muslins, gauze, and catgut, sattin shoes, calimanco ditto, sattin and calimanco petticoats, fine suits of childbed linen, baskets, pincushions, chimney lines, blankets, corded dimity and diaper, silk and cotton stockings, Gentlemens Didsbury's shoes, Ladies riding hats, fashionable bonnets, rolls and curls, a variety of JEWELLERY, French necklaces and earrings, with sundry other articles.
JANE CHARLTON.

Virginia Gazette (Purdie-Dixon)
May 5, 1774 Just Imported, and to be Sold by the Subscriber, on very reasonable Terms, in Williamsburg,
A GENTEEL Assortment of MILLINERY in the newest Taste, Mechlin, Brussels, and Minionet Lace, Blond Ditto, a Variety of White and Coloured Silks, Plain, Striped, and Sprigged Muslins, Jewellery, Childbed Linen, Robes, Ladies and Gentlemens Silk and Cotton Hose, Didsbury's Shoes, Gresham's Satin and Calimanco Ditto, Ladies Black and White Riding Hats, and many other Articles.
JANE CHARLTON.

The star was a very popular eighteenth-century motif. This English star brooch is set with rose-cut and haphazardly faceted diamonds.

A popular eighteenth-century motif, the "witch's heart' brooch. In silver, set with contrasting bands of rubies and diamonds.

Georgian Maltese
cross set with diamonds and a central topaz.

diamond brooch in a leaf design typifying the jeweller's use of natural motifs.

Virginia Gazette (Pinckney)
November 14 [4], 1774 A GENTEEL assortment of MILLINERY, LACES, Dresden SUITS, SILK, JEWELLERY, and sundry other articles, all in the newest fashion°
JANE CHARLTON .

Virginia Gazette (Purdie-Dixon)
May 2, 1771

Williamsburg, May 2, 1771

The Subscriber carries on the MILLINERY Business at her Shop next Door to Mr. Robert Anderson's Tavern, and has for Sale a great Variety of Articles in that Way, with TOYS, Strasburgs, Rappee, Weston's, and Scotch SNUFF, &c. &c.

⸫She makes Ladies Hats, Bonnets, Cloaks, and Cardinals; and mounts Fans, in the neatest Manner.
MARGARET HUNTER .

Virginia Gazette (Purdie-Dixon)
June 20, 1771 MARGARET HUNTER,
MILLINER, Williamsburg,
Hereby informs her Friends and Customers that she is removed to the Corner Store in Doctor Carter's Brick House, where she carries on the Millinery Business in all its Branches; also makes Ladies Hats, Bonnets, Cloaks, and Cardinals, and mounts Fans in the neatest Manner. — She has for Sale a great Variety of MILLINERY, TOYS, Strasburg, Rappee, Weston's, and Scotch SNUFF, &c., &c. Orders from the Country will be faithfully and punctually executed, on the most reasonable Terms.

Virginia Gazette (Purdie-Dixon)
October 24, 1771 Just Imported in the Nancy, Captain Barron, and to be Sold on reasonable Terms by the Subscriber, at the Shop lately occupied by Doctor Andrew Anderson, in Williamsburg,
A Fresh Assortment of Millinery, White Satin, plain and flowered Lustrings, Bath, Brussels, Minionet, and Edging Lace, Blond, black, and joining Ditto for Hoods, black, white, and blue Satin for Cloaks, Didsbury's Satin Shoes, Ditto Shoes and Pumps for Gentlemen and Children, Paste Buckles, Paste, Marcasite, Garnet, Pearl, and Wax Necklaces, Earrings, Sprigs, Crosses and Lockets, blue and white Satin Coats, Child Bed Linen, Baskets and Cushions, large Bags for Gentlemen at 7s. 6d. Rose Ditto at 3s. 9d. Mens, Womens, and Childrens white and coloured Gloves, black and white silk Ditto for Ladies, Silk, Cotton, and Worsted Hose, Cane and Chip Hats, Childrens blue and black Caps, Hats, and Feathers, Hair Rolls, coarse, fine, and Apron Book Muslin, Cambrick and Lawn, Ivory Bodkins, Smelling Bottles cased with Ivory, and a Variety of curious Toys, &c., &c. Fans neatly mounted, and Cloaks and Bonnets made by
MARGARET HUNTER.

"GERARD ANNE EDWARDS IN HIS CRADLE"; BY WILLIAM HOGARTH (1697-1764). SIGNED W. HOGARTH [illegible]. (12½ by 15½ ins.) (The National Trust, Upton House) CHILDBED LINENS

Virginia Gazette (Purdie-Dixon)
July 9, 1772

Just Imported from London, and to be Sold by the Subscriber, in Williamsburg,
A Complete Assortment of MILLINERY, &c. Paste Necklaces and Earrings; Marcasite Ditto, Wax Ditto set round with Marcasite; French Wax, Coral, Garnet, and Agate Ditto; Paste Buckles, Combs, Lockets, and Crosses; Silver Corals; Garnet Earrings set in Gold; Tortoiseshell, Ivory, Box, and Horn Combs, fashionable Paper Snuff Boxes; japanned Silver Thimbles; Childrens Clasps and Lockets; Tea Boards and Waiters; rich white Satin; flowered and plain Lustrings; figured, black, blue, and white Satin for Cloaks; Bath, Brussels, and Minionet Lace and Edgings; Blond and black Lace for Cloaks; joining Ditto for Hoods and Handkerchiefs; Silk, Cotton, Thread, and Worsted Stockings; Silk, Kid, and Lamb Gloves and Mits for Ladies; a Variety of neat Gloves and Didsbury's Shoes for Gentlemen; Calimanco, Silk, Satin, and embroidered Shoes for Ladies; Suits of Childbed Linen, Cradle Quilts and Robes; white Satin and Dimity Baskets; Lines and Pincushions; Chip Hats; white Bonnets; Satin Quilts; striped, plain, and flowered Muslin; Book Ditto for Aprons; Long Lawn; Cambrick; flowered, spotted, and plain Gauze; bordered Gauze Handkerchiefs and Aprons; Patent Net Hoods; Pieces of Ditto for Handkerchiefs and Ruffles; white Sarcenet; black, white, and blue Persian; Silver Blond for Stomachers and Sleeve Knots; Italian Ditto; Riband Ditto; Silver and Italian Breast Flowers; black, white, coloured, and India Fans; Dimity for Robes; Lace and Fringe for trimming Ditto; Fringe for Suits; Hair Rolls and Ear Curls, Silk Purses; Pocket Books; Smelling Bottles; and a Variety of Toys for Children; Silk Bags for Gentlemens Hair; fine Hyson Tea; Rappee and Scotch Snuff; with a great Number of other Articles.
MARGARET HUNTER.

⸫ Bonnets and Hats made in the newest Fashion; also Fans neatly mounted.

Virginia Gazette (Purdie-Dixon)
October 15, 1772

Imported in the PLANTER, Captain MILLER, and to be SOLD by the Subscriber in Williamsburg, on Reasonable Terms,
A NEAT Assortment of MILLINERY, &c. viz. Caps dressed and undressed, Stomachers, Sleeve Knots, Silver Blond for making Do. and for trimming, Bath, Brussels, and Minionet Lace, Joining Do. for Hoods and Handkerchiefs, Net and Patent Hoods, Pieces of Patent Net for Handkerchiefs and Ruffles, Black and Blond Lace, Joining Do. for Hoods, Thread and Blond Edging, fine and coarse Catgut, Jacob's Ladder, Suits of Dresden Work, Hats and Bonnets, black, blue, white, and figured Satin for Cloaks, Lace Satin for Do., Chip Hats, blue marking Thread, spotted, flowered, and plain Gauze Handkerchiefs and Aprons, white and coloured Fans with Ivory and Bone Sticks, rich white Satin, flowered, striped, and plain Lustrings, black, white, blue, and Pink Persians, Paste Necklaces and Earrings, Gold Lockets, Do. with Garnets, Paste, Garnet, and Foil Stone Crosses, Paste Combs and Buckles, Marcasite, Paste and Coque de Pearl Sprigs, Fancy Wax Necklaces, Wax, Coral, Agate, and real and mock Garnet Beads, Smelling Bottles, Paste Drop Earrings, Silver Toothpick Cases, plain and chased Corals, an Assortment of Thread, Ladies black, white, and blue Satin Hussars, black and white Beaver Hats for Do. Satin Hussars and Ostrich Feathers for Children, Silk, Kid, and Lamb Gloves and Mits, Pins and Needles, blue, white, and red Satin, and black Stuff quilted Coats, Hair Rolls and Curls, black Pins, Cane for Bonnets, Bunch, Skeleton, and Cork Screw Wire, Hardham's Rappee No. 9, Weston's Scotch Snuff, Suits of Childbed Linen, Satin and Dimity Baskets, Pincushions and Lines, striped, plain, flowered, Book, and Yard and a Half wide thick Muslins, Dimity, Lace, Fringe, and Muslin, for Childrens Robes, Diaper Clouting, long Lawn, a Variety of Ribands, Wax Top and Drop Earrings, black and coloured Velvet Collars, Italian Breast Flowers, white and coloured Satin, embroidered, Queen's Silk, and Stuff Shoes for Ladies, Silk, Cotton, Thread, and Worsted Stockings, Didsbury's Shoes, Buckskin Gloves for Gentlemen, a Variety of Toys, dressed and undressed Babies, green Silk Purses, &c.
MARGARET HUNTER

⸫ Hats, Bonnets and Cloaks, made in the neatest Manner and newest Fashion.

Virginia Gazette (Purdie-Dixon)
April 29, 1773 Just IMPORTED, and to be SOLD by the Subscriber, in WILLIAMSBURG, A NEW Assortment of MILLINERY of the most fashionable Kinds, namely, Caps, Hats, Bonnets, and Cloaks, Suits of Blond, Stomachers, Gloves, Ribands, Fans, Minionet and Brussels Lace and Edgings, Blond and Black Ditto, joining Ditto, rich white Satin, plain and figured Lustrings, Ladies Riding Hats, Boys black and blue Hats and Caps, Ladies and Gentlemens Gresham and Didsbury Shoes, Cotton, Silk, and Thread Stockings, fine Jackanet Muslin, Yard and Yard and a Half wide fine Book ditto of both Kinds, striped Border Muslin Handkerchiefs, Gauze Handkerchiefs and Aprons, flowered and plain Gauzes, flowered Muslin, striped Ditto, fine Suits of Dresden, fine Childbed Linen, Ditto Baskets, Pincushions, and Lines, Diaper for Clouting, fine India Earrings, Lockets and Crosses, Silver Corals, Toothpick Cases Ditto, a Variety of Rings, green silk Purses, Smelling Bottles, French Wax Necklaces and Earrings, Garnet, Coral, and Agate Necklaces, Hair Rolls, fine Italian Breast Flowers, small Ditto, Japan Teaboards, fine and coarse Chip Hats, Stuff Quilts, black, white, and blue Persians, black Mode, white Sarcenet, black Satin for Cloaks, Lace Satin for Ditto, Cradle Quilts, Comb Brushes, Shennel of all Colours, Powder Boxes and Puffs, scented and plain Powder, Pocket Books, Toys of all Sorts, Cotton Thread, French Ditto, Umbrellas, and dressed and undressed Babies, &c.—
All Sorts of Millinery made by
MARGARET HUNTER.

Floral designs abounded in eighteenth-century jewellery. This typical spray brooch, dating from the latter half of the century, is of silver set with rose- and brilliant-cut diamonds.

Large flower-spray brooch of diamonds pavé-set in silver. English, eighteenth-century.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
October 14, 1773 Just IMPORTED, and to be SOLD,
By M. HUNTER, in WILLIAMSBURG,
A GENTEEL Assortment of MILLINERY and other GOODS, consisting of Suits of Blond, Blond Caps, fancied enamelled Stomachers, Italian Ditto, Bath, Brussels, Minionet, and Blond Laces and Edgings, black Laces and Edgings, Silver Blond, Coxcomb Ditto, a Variety of plain and flowered Ribands, white Lustrings, flowered and plain Patent Net, a rich black Patent Net Apron, Patent Net Hoods, Book Muslin Yard and Yard and a Half wide, flowered Ditto, striped and flowered Muslin Yard and Yard and a Half wide, thick Ditto; black, blue, and white Satin for Cloaks; black, blue and white Persian Ditto; black Mode, white Sarcenet, Suits of Dresden Work, suits of Childbed Linen, Baskets, Pincushions, Lines, Robes, Cradle-Quilts, Paste Necklaces and Earrings, Sprigs and Pins Ditto, Lockets set with Garnets, plain Ditto, Gold and Silver Lockets for Necklaces, Paste and Marcasite Crosses, Foil Stone Ditto, Wax Necklaces and Earrings, Paste and plain Tortoise Shell and Horn Combs, Silver Corals, Paste Buckles, mock and real Garnets; Wax, Coral, and Agate Beads; Ladies Riding Hats, Childrens Beaver Hats, black and blue Satin Caps, quilted Puddings for Children, white and coloured Bone and Ivory Stick Fans, Filagree Toothpick Cases, Silver and Tortoise Shell inlaid with Silver Ditto, white and brown Thread Stockings, ribbed Ditto, Ladies and Gentlemens white Silk Stockings, coloured Ditto, Gresham's Ladies Calimanco Shoes, green and purple Ditto, Ladies black and white Silk Gloves, white and coloured Kid and Lamb Ditto, Mens white Silk Gloves, Wash Leather Ditto; blue, Pink, and white Satin Coats; blue, Pink, white Satin, and Queen's Silk Shoes; Tortoise Shell and Glass Smelling Bottles, Gentlemens and Ladies Pocket Books, Rings, Silver, Thimbles, Italian Breast Flowers, small Ditto, Models of Lord Hyson and Bohea Teas, Chip Hats, Cane Ditto, Bonnets, Stuff Petticoats, spotted Gauzes, Apron Ditto, Calicoes and Cottons, Babies of all Prices, a Variety of Toys, green Silk Purses, India Fans, black Pins, Snuff Boxes, Strasburg and Weston's Snuffs, Coal Seals, Cottons, Threads, and Tapes.

Waistcoat for dress wear, white satin, embroidered in coloured silks, brilliants and spangles, 1770-80.
Dress in Eighteenth-Century Europe by Aileen Ribeiro

Unmade Waistcoat Pattern. Silk woven and brocaded in the shape for waistcoat fronts; below are the pocket flaps and circles to cover the buttons, France, 1780-1795. 1954-284.
Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg by Linda Baumgarten

Virginia Gazette (Purdie-Dixon)
May 12, 1774 Just imported, and to be Sold by the Subscriber, on very reasonable Terms, in Williamsburg,
A GENTEEL Assortment of MILLINERY in the newest Taste, Brussels, Minionet, and Blond Lace, a Variety of Coloured and White Silk Stockings, Thread and Cotton Do. Plain, Striped, and Sprigged Muslins, Jewellery, Childbed Linen, Robes, Didsbury's Shoes, Gresham's Satin and Calimanco Do. Ladies Riding Hats, Childrens Do. with Feathers, Satin Quilts, Gentlemens Embroidered Waistcoat Patterns, White Quilting for Ladies Petticoats, very fine Hyson Tea, Busts of the late Lord Botetourt, and many other Articles.
MARGARET HUNTER.

Virginia Gazette
(Purdie-Dixon) October 27, 1774 Just imported, in the Bland, Captain Denby, and to be Sold by the Subscriber, in Williamsburg, a Fresh Assortment of MILLINERY, consisting of Bath, Brussels, and Minionet Laces, Blond and Black Laces, Edgings of all Sorts, Stomachers and Sleeve Knots, Caps of all Kinds, also a Compleat Assortment of Jewellery, Silks and Satins, White and Coloured Gentlemens fashionable Silk Hose, Childbed Linen, Baskets, Pincushions, and Cradle Quilts, Ladies Riding Hats, Childrens Do., Gresham's best Calimanco and Satin Shoes, Suits of Dresden Work, and a Number of other Articles, all new.
M. HUNTER.

Virginia Gazette
(Dixon-Nicolson)
February 3 [4], 1780

Williamsburg, Feb. 3, 1780.

I HAVE for SALE at my store, opposite Mr. Ambrose Davenport's tavern,in this city, an elegant assortment of the most beautiful calico and chintz patterns, black and white gauze, and a small quantity of the best soap.
M. HUNTER.

N.B. I still carry on the Milliners business, and would willingly take goods on commission, at a moderate advance.

Jane Hunter Charlton
Margaret Hunter
GLOSSARY

Bobbin -

lace made over a bobbin.

Broadcloth -

plain weave wool, fulled after weaving. Woven on a wide loom, and was usually 54-63 inches wide.

Calash -

a high bonnet with hoops in it to protect the high hair styles. It was collapsible for storage. Usually made of silk with hoops of wood, cane or whalebone. Green was the most popular color.

Chenille, Shennel -

a soft tufted cord used for embroidery or other ornamental purposes. Usually silk, but sometimes silk and wool or all wool.

Childbed linen -

materials for lining and draping over childbed baskets.

Clouting -

a linen material used for patching clothes or for diapers for babies.

Diaper -

a linen or linen and cotton fabric woven with lines crossing to form diamonds, with the spaces variously filled with lines, a dot, or a leaf.

Durants -

a thin, coarsely spun, highly glazed worsted fabric, used for both quilts and clothing. Because it wears well, it is some-times called everlasting.

Fan-mounts -

the paper part of the fan, which would then be put on the sticks by the milliner.

Floss silk -

raw and untwisted silk embroidery threads; suitable for laid work and long and short st itches where shades must blend in evenly.

Jackanet, Jaconet -

a thin, closely woven cotton textile; very soft. It is thinner than nainsook, thicker than muslin, and slighter than cambric.

Jacob's Ladder -

a type of trimming or edging.

James -

a type of child's dress.

Lines -

clothes lines. Hair Lines were made of horsehair.

142

Mantua -

silk for a gown.

Marking thread -

colored embroidery thread used for marking initials and dates on linens.

Parisnet -

a fabric of fine mesh used for veils.

Paste -

an imitation diamond made of flint or lead glass, usually backed with foil of silver or gold. Could be made in different colors.

Puddings -

a padded cap worn as a crash helmet by babies learning to walk.

Robes -

babies' gowns.

Sandles, Sandals -

thin-soled slippers cut low over the foot, with flat heels; tied on by criss-cross ribbons over the instep and around the ankle; used indoors and for evening wear.

Sprigs -

brooches made in the shape of sprigs of flowers.

Waistcoat patterns -

material embroidered or brocaded in a design and shape especially for waistcoats.

Worsted -

lightweight cloth made of long-staple combed wool yarn. Worsted yarns are used for crewel embroidery.

PUDDINGS

VIRGINIA GAZETTE Purdie-Dixon November 12, 1767

WILLIAMSBURG, Nov. 9, 1767

THE subscriber has imported in the Argyle, from London, a valuable assortment of millinery, and other goods, which she sells at a low price, for ready money only, viz.
Six quarter and yard wide book muslin, cambricks, fine and coarse pocket handkerchiefs, black and white Barcelona and lawn bordered do. womens satin hats and bonnets, girls do. boys silk hats and caps with feathers, ribbands, a great variety of agate, wax, French and pearl necklaces, earrings and sprigs, French and Italian egrets and breast flowers, skeleton wires, Scotch threads, flourishing cotton do. tapes, black and coloured ostrich feathers, womens, girls, and childrens shoes and pumps of all sorts, cotton hose, black silk mits, pins, milliners needles, common do. womens and girls coloured and plain kid gloves and mits, flowered lawn aprons, fans, India do. pearl fish and counters, silver thimbles, paste pins, ivory, tortoise shell, and horn combs, violet powder, powder boxes and puffs, toys, and several other articles.
She takes this opportunity to acknowledge the favours of her good customers, and hopes for a continuance of them; and to inform her friends concerned that her lottery is now completed, and will be drawn on Monday the 23rd instant.
SARAH PITT

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
October 27, 1768 Just imported from London in the Jordan, Captain Woodford, and to be sold by the subscriber in Williamsburg, at a very low advance, for ready money, the following articles, viz.
WOMENS calimanco pumps, girls do. womens leather pumps, girls do. children's morocco sorted, womens white worsted hose, childrens spotted do. men and womens cotton hose, childrens do. of different sizes, womens black silk gloves and mitts, purple kid gloves and mitts, girls do. satin bonnets plain and trimmed, womens and girls cloth cardinals; superfine ivory combs, horn combs with and without cases, knives sorted, neat scissors with sheaths, milliners needles, darning do. netting do. a great variety of figured and plain ribands, white and coloured fans, black and coloured sewing silks, a great assortment of threads, Balladine and Coventry do. for marking, superfine shaded cruels in grain, Jacob's ladder, powder boxes and puffs with powder, black hair plumes, white and coloured feathers, silver thimbles, a great assortment of paste pins, a great variety of the most fashionable pearl, French, and jet necklaces, earrings and sprigs, Italian egrets and breast flowers, flower hair pins, fashionable stomachers and sleeve knots, ivory pomatum eggs, Ladies small size Morocco letter cases clasps, Morocco etwee cases with instruments complete and plated locks, do. with instruments and silver locks, a variety of pocket handkerchiefs, long lawn, pistol lawn, yard and half yard wide muslin, cambrick, diaper and Holland tape, pins, bobbin, cottons and persians, snuff boxes, blue, nutmegs, mace, cloves, and cinnamon, a new assortment of toys, tea sets complete, soap, chocolate, loaf sugar, saltpetre, white ginger, Pitt's bitters and bitter ingredients, hair lines, and many other articles too tedious to mention.
SARAH PITT

The PARK
of the most Fashionable Dress for the Year 1777.
UMBRELLAS
Women in Life and Letters by M. Phillips and W. S. Tomkinson

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
May 18, 1769

Just imported in the Jenny, Capt. Fearon,
A VERY genteel assortment of millinery, and other goods, which she proposes to sell at a very low advance, for ready money only, viz.
Ivory thimbles, bodkins do. plain smelling bottles, engraved do. different sorts of sleeve buttons and studs, ivory and bone toothpick cases, toothpicks do. ivory eggs, teacups and saucers, coffee do. sprig nankeen blue, steel watch chains, scissors, japanned waiters, buck wire, bows do. net hoods, purple collars and earrings, a new assortment of fashionable ribands, glossy gauze, ell wide do. dressed figured do. horn pole combs, tortoiseshell do. fine box do. tupee do. paste do. milliners needles, darning do. common do. black and white bugles, green and blue do. bugle collars, a large assortment of necklaces and earrings in the newest fashion and taste, a great variety of head and breast flowers, Italian fillets, plumes do. suits of gauze laced and plain, plain gauze caps, ruffs, tuckers, and ruffles, complete, lappet caps do. Denmark do. riband stomachers, blond lace, do. with flowers, silver do. silver egrets, snail trimmings, French do. womens and girls calimanco shoes and pumps, girls morocco do. India fans, white and coloured do. mens and boys gloves, womens kid and glazed lamb do. womens worsted and cotton hose, one ounce and two ounce glass tea canisters, threads, tapes, silk laces, plain and figured stocks, Bath and brass thimbles, pearl and shell penknives, tortoiseshell do. marbles, allies, pinchbeck, Bath and steel buckles, very genteel pocket books dressed and undressed dolls, a great variety of paste pins, silver thimbles, cambricks, muslin, pistol lawn, long lawn, Persians, sewing silks, Chinese netting do. worsteds, black and white Barcelona handkerchiefs, womens hats and bonnets, toys, a great variety of pocket handkerchiefs, hair lines for clothes, powder boxes and puffs, umbrellas, and many other things too tedious to mention.
SARAH PITT

N.B. As the goods are new and well chosen, I flatter myself that the Ladies will favour me with their custom, which will be gratefully acknowledged by
Their humble servant,
S .P.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Rind
October 26, 1769

WILLIAMSBURG, October 25, 1769

Just imported in the Two Sisters, Capt. Taylor,
from London,
a NEW assortment of Millinery and other goods, to be SOLD, at a very low advance, for ready money only, viz.
a very genteel assortment of caps, ribband and chenille stomachers, a large assortment of necklaces, earrings, and sprigs, paste, pearl, and French ditto, fancy hair pins very prettily executed, gauze ruffles, tuckers, and ruffs, a variety of egrets, flower caps and feathers, artificial and basket breast flowers, a genteel assortment of fans, paste, tortoiseshell and horn combs, ivory and box ditto, smelling-bottles, ivory bodkins, a very handsome assortment of paper boxes, pomatum eggs, and nutmeg graters, white cardinals, shades ditto, black and white bonnets, black satin cardinals, black, purple, crimson and scarlet cloth ditto, cottons, white callico and hum-hums, a large assortment of fashionable ribbands, satin and calimanco pumps, childrens Morocco ditto, boys shoes, silk and cotton hose, childrens ditto, silver thimbles, pins, needles, threads, tapes, bobbin, silk laces, black and white Chinese netting silk, purple, kid and lamb gloves, plaited stocks, silk handkerchiefs, bow and bunch wire, worsteds in grain, china tea-cups, coffee-cups and saucers, Queen's ditto, double jointed spectacles in fish-skins, Irish linens, cloves, mace, nutmegs, raisins, white ginger, saltpetre, toupee irons, scates, trunks and band boxes, and many other articles.
SARAH PITT

N.B. I expect by the first vessels, a larger assortment of gauzes, muslins, lawns, &c. &c.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
November 2, 1769

Just imported in the Two Sisters, Captain Taylor, from London, a new assortment of MILLINERY, and other goods, to be sold at a very low advance, for ready money only,
A VERY genteel assortment of caps, ribands, and sheneal stomachers, a large assortment of necklaces, earrings, and sprigs, paste do. pearl and French do. fancy hair pins very pretty, gauze ruffles, tuckers, and ruffs, a variety of egrets, flower caps and feathers, artificial and basket breast flowers, a genteel assortment of fans, paste tortoiseshell, and horn combs, ivory and box do. smelling bottles, ivory bodkins, a very handsome assortment of paper boxes, pomatum eggs, and nutmeg graters, white cardinals, shades do. black and white bonnets, black satin cardinals, black, purple, crimson, and scarlet cloth, do. cottons, white calico and humhums, a large assortment of fashionable ribands, satin and calimanco pumps, childrens morocco do. boys shoes, silk and cotton hose, childrens do. silver thimbles, pins, needles, threads, tapes, bobbin, silk laces, black and white Chinese netting, silk, purple, kid, and lamb gloves, plaited stocks, silk handkerchiefs, bow and bunch wire, worsted in grain, china tea cups, coffee cups and saucers, Queen's do. double jointed spectacles in fishskins, Irish linens, cloves, mace, nutmegs, raisins, white ginger, saltpetre, toupee irons, skates, trunks and banboxes, and many other articles too tedious to mention.
SARAH PITT

N.B. She expects a fuller assortment in the next ship of gauzes, muslins, lawns, and many other articles .

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
December 14, 1769

Just imported in the INDUSTRY, Captain LOWES, from LONDON, and to be SOLD at a very low advance, for ready money only,
BLACK and coloured bugles, a great variety of white, red, blue and green agate, and other necklaces of different sorts and fashions, mock garnet and bead egrets, rolls for Ladies hair, fancy coloured egrets, sultan do. shaded flowers, childrens morocco pumps, black do. boys do. yard wide glossy gauze, ell wide do. muslin do. undressed do. dressed figured do. a variety of new jubilee ribands, rich black alamode, yard wide white do. Final cotton holland, tortoiseshell and horn crooked combs, paste do. shapes, ornaments, and mottoes for desserts, of different sorts and figures, womens and girls fans, flower norishers, womens silk mits, kid and lamb do. boys worsted hose, fine hair powder, boys hats, cotton and silk laces, blue harrateen for curtains, an assortment of rich black lace, white do. picket gauze parisnet, white catgut, green and coloured silk purses, balladine silk, white blond thread, floss silk, fine cap wire, crimping do. a great variety of pocket handkerchiefs, lawn do. striped muslin, huckaback, ell wide Russia linens , pistol lawns, demi cambricks of different prices, very beautiful japan waiters of different sizes, a great variety of Queen's china for children, sets complete, very good hyson and bohea tea, a variety of other articles imported in the April court.
SARAH PITT.

N.B. As she has an assistant just arrived from London, who understands the millinery business, mounting fans, and making cardinals and bonnets, she hopes for a continuance of the ladies custom, which shall be acknowledged as a favour .

1788
Mrs. Williams-Hope
Costume Illustrations by James Laver
"Mobs"
MOB CAP

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
April l9, 1770 Sup.

Just imported, in the Jenny, Capt. Woodford, a large assortment of MILLENERY, and other GOODS, at a low advance, for ready money only, viz. CALLICOES, chintzes, persians, catgut, India chintzes, lawn handkerchiefs, coloured pullicat ditto, figured ditto, gauze mobs, crimp'd caps with lappets, gauze fillets, neat dressed caps, puffed ditto, laced ditto, large dressed fillets and flowers, small ditto, pink and blue lined childrens caps, lace and flower caps, Italian caps, common ditto, boys black silk hats, Ostrich feathers, blue, green, and white satin caps, gold and velvet pocket books, gold pincushions, silk and cotton laces, narrow pink, sheneal, paduasoy, and rich fashioned ribbands, nice silk purses, tapes, holland and diaper, ribband and lace stomachers, pink and white ditto, white and blue feathers, tortoise-shell combs set in paste, horn ditto in paste, ditto set in garnet, ditto in marquiset, plain horn and tortoiseshell combs of several sorts, ivory ditto, marquiset crosses and hearts set in silver, half moon, pearl and marquiset fancy pins, garnet ditto, pink beads, black ditto, seed wax ditto, oval ditto, wax pearl ditto, black, white, blue and green bugles, agate ditto, black bead and bugle collars, mother of pearl collars and earrings, dressed ditto, smelling bottles in carved and plain cases, ivory thimbles, Bath metal ditto with steel tops, very handsome steel watch chains, dandriff combs, comb brushes, gilt oval sleeve buttons, pearl buttons and studs, penknives, large and small scissars, milleners common and darning needles, minikins, short whites and corking pins, large and small naked dolls, dressed ditto, toy tea sets, and a large variety of other toys, Ladies black furred riding hats, feathers for ditto, mens beaver and castor hats, childrens ditto laced and plain, womens, girls, mens, and boys white gloves glazed and in grain, callimanco pumps, leather ditto, and shoes, womens and childrens black leather and Morocco shoes and pumps, Didsbury's mens white and brown ditto, bohea and hyson tea, single and double refined sugar, check, oznabrug, and many other articles too tedious to mention.
SARAH PITT.

N.B. As she has got a milliner come in, she carries on the millenery business; also making of cardinals, bonnets and hats, and mounting of fans, &c.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Rind
July 12, 1770

WILLIAMSBURG, June 27, 1770

Just imported in the Golden Fleece, Capt. Gooseley, from London,
A VERY genteel and large assortment of MILLINERY and other goods, which, on account of the association, she intends selling at a very low advance, for ready money only.
SARAH PITT.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Rind
November 8, 1770

Just IMPORTED in the NEPTUNE, Captain WHITE,
A NEAT and genteel assortment of GOODS, viz.
half moon pearl and marquiset sprigs, blue and white ditto; paste ditto, blue and white pearl agate, and marquiset necklaces with drops, and French bead ditto, ditto on velvet, India pearl necklaces, velvet ribband for collars, blue agate, pearl French bead, marquiset, and garnet earrings, with and without drops, very neat marquiset hoop rings, white stomachers, breast flowers, egrets, coloured ditto, neat pincushion housewives with looking-glasses, trunks ditto, silver stomachers and egrets, minionet and blond lace, sprigged, striped, and plain muslins, cambricks, pistol lawns, flowered and plain gauze, flowered ditto, and lawn aprons, white and coloured lustring, laced and worked ruffles, India chintzes, purple, coloured, and white calicoes, very fine humhums, mens, womens, boys and girls coloured and white gloves and mits, paste buckles, pinchbeck and steel ditto, womens and girls Russell's quilts, womens black sattin cardinals, crimson cloth ditto, womens and childrens ditto, fans, mens Didsbury's pumps and shoes, womens calamanco and leather ditto, womens and childrens wove stays, paste and plain combs, marquiset ditto, black tammy, cloth colours ditto, blue and white ditto, pink in grain ditto, figures stuffs, green durants, white flannel, white swanskin, red ditto, striped flannels, Dutch blankets, spotted rugs, thick ditto, coloured ferret, worsteds, key rings, and rings for necklaces, fluted and plain scates with and without leather, cocoa and bone bilbo catchers, fiddles, iron coal scuttles, canvas for marking, silk for ditto, pins, needles, threads, refined sugar, bohea tea, ginger, pepper, copperas, cotton, and Clothier's cards, saltpetre, marbled and plain washballs, hungary water, tooth powder and brushes, lip salve, best anchovies, capers and olives, and very good flower of mustard.

Those Ladies and Gentlemen who may please to favour her with their custom, may depend on her selling on the most reasonable terms; and she is obliged to be punctual in her remittances, must sell for ready money only. The above goods were sent for before the association took place, and there has not been time for counter orders.
SARAH PITT.

Just IMPORTED in the Two Sisters, Captain Taylor, from London,
WOMENS, girls, and childrens bonnets, net hoods, ivory pomatum eggs, tortoise-shell rings lined with gold, chip hats, mens and womens cotton hose, black pins for Ladies hair, best Poland starch, blues, and Madden's oil. Also a great variety of womens, girls, and childrens fashionable caps and filets, best mahogany Hadley's quadrant with an ivory arch, Nonice's division in a wainscot case, a full case of instruments for navigation with steel joints, a southern and West-India pilot, and many other articles too tedious to mention. Likewise a parcel of medicines, which I will sell for less than can be imported; Squire's elixir at 2ls. per dozen, British oil at 13s. per dozen, refined at 2ls. per dozen, Anderson's pills at 15s. per dozen, Godfrey's cordial at 6s. per dozen, Hooper's female pills at 15s. per dozen, Balderson's wormcakes at 15s. per dozen, and Turlington's balsam at 27s. per dozen.
SARAH PITT

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
May 16, 1771 Just IMPORTED, in the ANNE & MARY, Captain POWER, from LONDON
A NEAT and genteel Assortment of GOODS suitable for the Season. Those Gentlemen and Ladies who have been so kind as to give her their Custom, she hopes, will still favour her with a Continuance of it; and as she is obliged to sell for ready Money, they may depend upon being supplied on the most reasonable Terms.
SARAH PITT.

Eighteenth-century ear-rings of silver set with diamonds. Possibly English.

Eighteenth-century jewellery designs were largely dominated by the diamond. Above: a pair of diamond drop ear-rings dated about 1750.

marquise, or cluster, ring of silver set with diamonds

ring set with diamonds round a large rose-cut diamond. Either English or French.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Rind
October 10, 1771

WILLIAMSBURG, October 10, 1771

Just imported in the JUNO, Captain M'Cunn,
a neat and genteel assortment of GOODS, to be sold very reasonable for ready money; consisting of paste shoe, stock, and knee buckles, plain and figured lustrings of the newest fashion, a variety of Ladies and Gentlemens Morocco pocket books, with and without instruments, with silver locks and clasps, paste, marquiset, and French beads, wax, pearl, jet, and other kinds of necklaces, paste combs, sprigs, and pins, with birds and other figures, plain, gold, garnet, and silver ear-rings, black russell and durant, quilts, sattin cardinals and bonnets, mode do. marquiset lockets, stomachers and knots, gimp and other trimmings, shennell, fine figured pattern net hoods, plain do. chintz, cotton, and coloured calicoes, white do. taffeties and persians, womens callimanco and leather pumps, girls do. childrens red and blue Morocco do. black leather do. youths and boys pumps and shoes, mens Didsbury's do. green, blue, black and white bugles, glossy gauze, muslin do. dice do. white net, dressed striped gauze, dressed figured do. blue and red pocket handkerchiefs, large and small naked babies, with glass eyes, and hair wigs, pewter toy tea sets, Turnbridge do. alabaster do. sets of tea spoons and strainers, ribbands, muslins, tammies, shalloons, flannels, mens, womens, and girls gloves, mens, womens, boys, and girls cotton and worsted hose, Dutch blankets, blue and green plains, threads, tapes, penknives, needles, pins, combs, and writing paper, striped hollands, best flour of mustard, and a variety of other articles. I expect another assortment by Capt. White and hope for the further continuance of those Ladies and Gentlemen who have been so kind as to favour me with their custom.
SARAH PITT.

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Rind
October 15, 1772 Just imported, in the Fanny, Capt. Barron, and to be SOLD, by the subscriber, on reasonable terms, for ready money only,
A LARGE assortment of GOODS, consisting of very handsome paste necklaces and earrings, marcasite, wax, and coal ditto, handsome paste collars, solitaires and sprigs, paste sleeve buttons, gilt ditto, sets of buttons for stomachers, silver papboats, coral and bells, garnet and marcasite hoops, lockets ditto, childrens watches and equipages, curious watch trinkets for Ladies, very genteel dress and undress fancy caps, and others, hair rolls, drop curls, &c. very fine point, blond point, mecklenburg, and minionet laces, striped and figured sattins and lustrings for sacks and coats, ditto for bonnets, silver blond for trimmings, childrens fillets and quarter caps, womens blue, green, and red morocco turned pumps, womens and girls black leather shoes and pumps, fashionable stomachers and breast flowers, garnet, coal, and Italian egrets, gold loops, bands, and buttons, smelling bottles, pincushion trunks, and Gentlemens pocket books, of all prices, a large quantity of womens and girls quilts, a variety of pretty cottons and callicoes, copperplate and fancy chintzes, Chinese and other handkerchiefs, very fine bohea hyson tea, the famous Norris's drops, hungary, Madden's oil, capers, ginger, spices, blue, hair powder, cloth cardinals, ditto sattin, with and without bonnets, Gentlemens lace and worked ruffles, Ladies ditto, and many other articles.
SARAH PITT.

Sarah Garland Pitt
GLOSSARY

Balladine, Belladine -

a coarse raw white silk from Turkey or Persia, used for sewing or marking. It was very durable.

Bilbo Catcher -

a child's toy made of wood and string.

Ferrets -

narrow silk ribbon used by women to bind the bottom of their garments; also used for strings to tie up petticoats.

Flannel -

woolen fabric made of slightly twisted yarn. It has an open texture, and is soft and spongy. Can be plain or twill weave, and is finished with a napped surface. Used for under waistcoats.

Flower nourishers -

small bottles to contain water for flowers placed in the hair or bosom.

Harrateen -

a finely woven watered worsted, usually waved and figured with impressed designs. Often used for curtains.

Huckaback -

a self-patterned weave with a tabby ground and small all-over motifs in offset rows. Made of loosely woven linen, and very absorbant. Used for table cloths and napkins.

Humhums -

plain cotton cloth that was thick and stout. Used for toweling and for lining coats.

Hungary water -

a toilette water containing rosemary.

Japanned waiters -

black enamelled trays.

Minikin -

a fine gold wire used in embroidery.

Pearl fish and counters -

used in playing the game of loo .

Picket gauze parisnet -

a semi-transparent thin silk textile, often used for aprons. Could also be made of linen.

Pomatum eggs -

egg-shaped containers for pomatum, a grease used to hold the hair in place and hold the powder on.

Pullicat -

a colored cotton or silk handkerchief.

Pumps -

shoes with thin pliable soles and low heels, usually used as dress shoes. Could be buckled or tied over the tongue.

Russell -

a worsted stuff, hot-pressed or calendered to give it the lustrous appearance of satin. It has been described as a sort of twilled Lasting, or a stout variety of Calimancoes. It was used mainly for petticoats and waistcoats.

172

Sack, sacque -

a gown made form-fitting in front, with the back consisting of two box-pleats, single, double or treble, stitched down on each side of the back seam from the neckband to the shoulders, then left loose to merge into the fullness of the skirt below. The front of the skirt was left open to show a decorative petticoat, and was used with a stomacher and hoops.

Stock -

a piece of linen or cambric folded to form a high neckband, and sometimes stiffened with pasteboard. It was buckled. behind, leaving the ruffled shirt front uncovered.

Swanskin -

a fine woolen cloth of plain weave related to flannel and bay; also a fleecy cotton cloth. Sometimes called ironing cloth, it was also used for printers' blankets, heavy under clothing, gaiters and jackets.

Tammy -

a strong, lightweight worsted of plain weave and open texture, often glazed. Used for bed and window hangings, ladies' petticoats and dresses, linings of men's coats, and as strainer cloths.

Tucker -

a white frilled band of linen, muslin or lace edging the neck opening of a gown.

SAQUE (or SACK BACK GOWN) 1650-1770
Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg by Linda Baumgarten

Virginia Gazette
(Purdie-Dixon)
April 19, 1770 Supplement

Just imported in the RANDOLPH, Captain WALKER, and to be sold by the Subscriber at Mr. William Holt's Store, at a very low advance, for ready money.
RICH white lustrings, striped do. best Persian taffeties, nice white trimming, fine white calicoes and humhums, striped and plain muslins, book do. cambricks and lawns, plain gauze, figured, spotted, and striped ell wide do. a very genteel fashionable assortment of millinery, complete suits full trimmed, lace fronts, Ranelagh and lace crimped do. flower caps, cockades, egrets, best Italian breast flowers and nosegays, do. feathers, do. very pretty newest fashioned ribands,
[…] narrow shenneal, paduasuay do. lace dress fillets, riband
[…] handsome half moon marcasites, pearl and fancy
[…] common do. to pin hats, crooked
[…] paste, plain and best horn do. great
[…] rings, very fashionable marcasites set
[…] pink French co. seed wax
[…] and and sleeve knots quite in the taste
[…] fans, wedding do. rich blue satin
[…] pink, and black do. jubilee
[…] womens kid and lamb gloves
[…] boys do. cotton and thread
[…] shoes, wh ite satin do., black
[…] sewing silk of all kinds, best
[…] bow wire, skeign do. and
[…] MARY DICKENSON

[…] on MANTUAMAKING,
[…] and would take linen to make
[…] as please to favour her with
[…]g their work done in the most
[…]nner.

([…] = torn off)

Virginia Gazette
(Purdie-Dixon)
November 22, 1770 Supplement

Just imported from LONDON, in the TWO SISTERS, Captain TAYLOR, and to be SOLD by the Subscriber, at the Store next door to the POST OFFICE, on the most reasonable terms, for ready money, a very large and fashionable assortment of MILLINERY, and other goods suitable for the season, viz.
VERY rich China tafetas of all colours, white lustring, fine chintz printed cottons, linens, and calicoes ell wide, book muslin, striped and thick ell wide do. long lawns, cambricks, clear lawns, plain ell wide and yard wide gauze, striped, flowered, and sprigged do. catgut, parisnet, new fashioned teresas, laced and flounced casting handkerchiefs, checked gauze do. spotted, striped, bordered, and flowered do. yard wide black silk handkerchiefs, striped bordered lawn do. beautiful flower caps, egrets, plumes with leaves, single do. lace and gauze caps, fashionable suits of gauze, genteel puffs, great variety of ribands, new fashioned figured and plaited do. silver stomachers, shenell, riband, lace, and flowered do. best Italian nosegays and breast flowers, shenell in bunches, very nice hair rolls and tates, single and double curls, woolpacks, paste combs, plain, hollow backed, tortoise-shell, and horn do. paste sprigs, marcasite and pearl birds, marcasite and pearl half moons, very large French paste sprigs, do. star pins and fancy do. union and thistle sprigs in close work, do. in form of leaves, real garnet do. marcasite, &c. a genteel assortment of necklaces, fine French, shot, and oval wax, agates, jet and common do. real and mock garnet do. pearl and set necklaces, do. earrings, bugles, fine stone buckles, London gilt do. insets, bath, pinchbeck, and common do. all sizes of velvet collars, beaded do. all sorts of wedding, second mourning, and ivory fans, in cases, common do. plain and bordered lawn, minionet and blond laces, floss to work muslin with, Lyle's and other threads, needles, pins, tapes, silver thimbles, ivory, and common do. earpicks, toothpicks, childrens blue caps and feathers, waiting boys do. Ladies riding hats and feathers, gloves for do. cap wire, Gentlemens very fine furred hats, watch strings, purses, thread gloves, white silk, buckskin, beaver, yellow wash, and black shamois do. Ladies black and white silk gloves and mits, nice grained kid, coloured lamb, childrens black and blue bonnets, gloves for do. mens best spun silk hose, do. raw silk, marble do. fine worsted do. white, gray and black do. for women, boys and girls do. plain and flowered satin cloaks and bonnets, Denmark hats, Gentlemen and Ladies Morocco pocket books and glasses, ivory combs, plain do. in cases, tortoiseshell do. buffalo sliding knives and forks, tortoiseshell penknives, common do. black calimanco russel quilts, double camblets, flannels and checks, fashionable broadcloths, trimmings suitable for do. Babt coating, Irish and other linens, scissors, snuff boxes, toys, Queen's china and 183 confectionary of all sorts, with a multiplicity of other articles too tedious to enumerate.
MARY DICKINSON.

N.B. She returns those Gentlemen and Ladies who have honoured her with their custom her most cordial thanks; and as the above will be sold on lower terms than the former, she hopes it will be an inducement for a continuance of their favours, which will be gratefully acknowledged by
Their very humble Servant.
M.D.

314 Francois Janinet. Marie Antoinette. Engraving, 1777. With grand court dress a festive coiffure with pearls, ribbons and feathers is obligatory.
The Pictorial Encyclopedia of Fashion

MARYLAND GAZETTE
Green
September 26, 1771 Just imported, and to be sold by the Subscriber, at Mrs. Allom's, opposite Mr. Ball's Ordinary,
A NEAT and elegant Assortment of Jewellery, Millinery and other Goods, viz, Paste Necklaces and Earrings, blue Agate set with Marcasites, Pink Wax, Falling ditto and white Wax ditto, Earing suitable to all, &c, best French Wax, Seed and Pearl ditto, real Garnets and mock ditto, and various Kinds of Agates, genteel striped Velvet Collars of all Colours, beaded ditto, best French Ribband plated and flowered with Silver, Jubely ditto, &c. the newest Taste, handsome Ribband Ruffs, Ribband and best Italian Shenell and Silver Stomachers, Knots and Sprigs ditto, which are vastly genteel, beautiful large Hair Sprigs of all Sorts, viz. best French and English Paste, real Garnets ditto, and pretty Half Moons, Marcasite and Pearl, also small Paste Pins for ditto, Paste Combs genteelly set in double and single Rows ditto, Gentlemens Set Stock and Knee Buckles, Silver Thimbles, black Fans, ditto white, and coloured Ivory, in Cases, elegantly mounted after the French and China Taste, nice Woolpacks with drop Curls, genteel Flies , handsome Lappets, and all Kinds of Blond Lace Caps, also Mens Stock Tape pleated, &c. Egrets, Flower Caps, Plumes with Leaves and single ditto, plain and flowered Gauze Caps, complete Suits of Blond Lace and Gauze ditto, all the newest Taste, various Sorts of Ladies and Gentlemens, Youths and Maids Mitts and Gloves, Mens fine China Hose, Cotton and Thread ditto, Bags and Roses for ditto, finest Book Muslins, strip'd and thick ditto, plain, figured, flowered and black Gauzes, genteel flowered and bordered Gauze Aprons, ditto black Alamode, trimmed genteely in the Fashion, fine netted Hoods, Shenel of all Colours, Bunches, in black Ostrich Feathers and Ladies Hat ditto, and riding Gloves, Jacob's Ladder, Blond and Minionet Laces, white and blue Sattin Quilts, white, blue and black Bonnets and Sattin Cardinals, white Sattin Shoes, and Calimanco ditto, with a Multiplicity of other Articles too tedious to mention. She assures those Ladies and Gentlemen who may honour her with their Custom, that they are as fashionable, genteel and elegant an Assortment as she ever imported from London, and they map depend on having them upon the best Terms,
From their very humble Servant,
MARY DICKINSON.

Silver and diamond aigrette, showing the various styles of cut used for individual diamonds. Each stalk of the ornament is flexible and vibrates at the slightest motion. Of late-eighteenth-century workmanship.

English-made rose — and brilliant-cut diamond bow-and-feather brooch, c. 1770.

'ear of barley' brooch in gold and brilliant-cut diamonds.

silver and brilliant-cut diamond plume brooch. English or French, eighteenth century.

Virginia Gazette
(Purdie-Dixon)
October 17, 1771 Just IMPORTED in the JUNO, McCUNN, and NEPTUNE, WHITE, from L0NDON, and to be SOLD by the Subscriber, next Door to Mr. JAMES GEDDY'S Shop, near the Church, in Williamsburg, at a low Advance, for ready Money,
A VERY elegant Assortment of MILLINERY, JEWELLERY, and other Goods, well chosen, and of the latest Fashions. Striped, flowered, and plain Lustrings, best striped and flowered Mantua Silks, plain and striped China Tafetas, India Chintz Callicoes and Cottons, worked Aprons, white and blue figured and spotted Cloaks and Bonnets, Ladies Riding Hats and Feathers neatly dressed, Ladies Silk and Morocco Pocket Books with Instruments, black, white, and blue Satin Pumps, Calimanco Ditto, scented Hair Powder, double and single black Hair Pins, Powder Puffs, Wash Balls, Gentlemens Buck, Doe, Norway Doe, Beaver, Silk, Lamb and Thread Gloves, Blond and Minionet Lace, black Lace and Edging, black Gauze Shades and fashionable Teresas, plain, figured, and Silver Riband, black Gloves, Patent Mits, Lace Ruffles, Kid and Lamb Gloves and Mits for Children and grown Persons, Morocco Shoes, Didsbury's Shoes, plain, Tortoiseshell, and Horn Combs, Paste Combs, Marcasite and Garnet Hoops, Lockets and Crosses, Childrens blue and black Satin Caps, beaded Collars, Solitaires, Paste Shoe, Knee, and Stock Buckles, London gilt and Pinchbeck Shoe Buckles, Garnet Necklaces, Earrings, Sprigs and Pins, Paste Cluster Necklaces and Earrings, a great Variety of Sprigs, Pins, and Earrings, Agate Necklaces set in Marcasite, Pearl and Wax Do. set Marcasites, Buffalo and Ivory sliding Knives and Forks, Gold and Silver Buttons, Loops, and Bands, Shagreen, Tortoiseshell, and Ivory Memorandum Books, ribbed China Silk Hose, plain and coloured Ditto, India Cotton Ditto, Thread and Worsted Ditto, Gentlemens Gold and Scarlet Sword Suits, Suits of Blond Lace, Lace Ruffles and Tippets, Patent Net Gauze, Catgut, plain and striped Muslin, Book Ditto, Cambricks, striped and plain Lawn, green and white Sarcenet, black Mode Persian, Shenell, chased Silver Cruets, French Beads, Silver, Steel topped and Ivory Thimbles, Ivory Nutmeg Graters, large and small undressed Dolls, sprigged and striped Handkerchiefs, a great Assortment of Egrets, Caps, Fillets, Stomachers, Ribands, Lace, and Italian Breast Flowers and Plumes, Net and Patent Hoods, Russell Quilts, Horn Snakes, Cruels and Marking Canvas, Ostrich Feathers, &c., &c.
MARK DICKINSON

Virginia Gazette
(Purdie-Dixon)
April 30, 1772 MARY DICKINSON informs the Publick that she has removed to the Store above the Coffeehouse, near the Capitol, and has just imported, from LONDON, a fresh Assortment of JEWELLERY, MILLINERY, and other GOODS, namely, Lustrings, Tafetas, Chintzes, &c. various Sorts of Necklaces, Earrings, large Sprigs and Paste Pins, plain and set Combs, Lockets and Crosses, Garnet and Marcasite Hoops, Ditto Tortoiseshell lined with Gold, many little curious Watch Trinkets, set Shoe, Knee, and Stock Buckles, Gold Bands, Buttons and Loops, Sword Knots, fine China Hose, &c. Ladies Riding Hats, Boys blue and black Satin Caps and Feathers, Satin Cloaks and Bonnets, blue and white Satin Pumps, white and blue Satin Quilts, Blond and Minionet Laces, Gentlemen's fine Minionet Lace Ruffles, complete Suits of Ditto for Ladies, Ribands, Riband Lace, Italian and Silver Stomachers and Knots, true Italian Fancy Caps, Nosegays and Breast Flowers, Egrets and Plumes, fine striped bordered Muslin and Lawn Handkerchiefs, laced and flounced Ditto, Cambricks, fine Book and thick Muslins, Gauzes, Catgut, Queen's Net-worked Muslin Aprons, Lawn and Gauze Ditto, Gentlemen and Ladies Silk, Kid, and Lamb Gloves, Woolpacks with Drop Curls, netted Hoods, Gauze and laced Caps, and many other Articles too tedious to mention.

791 Gallery of Fashion, London, 1796. With her delicate sprigged morning gown the lady wears a turban, a scarf and a voluminous muff.
The Pictorial Encyclopedia of Fashion

Maryland Gazette
September 24, 1772

Just imported from LONDON, and selling by the Subscriber, the next Door to Mr. Hewitt the Barber, at a Low Advance, for ready Money,
A LARGE, brilliant, elegant and fashionable Assortment of Jewellery, Millinery, and other Goods, viz. Beautiful large real Garnet, blue Agate, Marcasite, French Paste, Pearl and Jet Sprigs and Paste Pins; Pearl, Agate and French Wax Necklace and Earrings, set round with Marcasite Paste, and Wax Bows and Solitaires, on Velvet Collars, quite the Taste; real and mock garnet Pink Wax, Wax, Pearl and Paste Necklaces and Earrings; blue Agate, Marcasite, Bead Paste and French Paste Branch Earrings; set and plain bent Combs cluster Paste Lockets; plain Gold and real Garnet ditto; Garnet and Paste Crosses; Gold Rings and Marcasite Hoops; set Buckles, Watch Trinkets, and Scarlet, Crimson and Gold Sword Suits; Gold Bands, Buttons and Loops; Gentlemens fine Minionet Lace Ruffles; China Hose, silk Gloves, sliding Knives and Forks, and Morocco Pocket Books with Instruments; Ladies Silk and Moroco ditto; Pincushing Housewives and Dandyprats; fashionable true Italian, Silver, Blond Lace, Ribband and Shenel Stomachers and Knots; very handsome Italian fancy Caps, Puffs, Whims, Egrets, Baves, Plume, Sultans, Dap and Ranelagh Fillets; compleat Suits of Blond Lace; Gauze and Lace Caps; Ladies most fashionable white Riding Hats and Feathers, with Gold Lace Turbans; Ostriches Feathers, Velvet Collars and Ribbands; Minionet and Blond Laces; white flowered Lutestrings; Pink, Straw, changeable and striped ditto; black short Aprons; worked Book Muslin and striped ditto; flounced Handkerchiefs and Teresas; best Sort of French mounted Fans; smelling Bottles with Measures; Denmark Hats and Boys Caps; Cambricks, Muslins and Gauzes; and many other Articles too tedious to mention. Those Ladies and Gentlemens, who will condescend to favour me with their Custom, may depend on having their Goods on very reasonable Terms, by their very Humble Servant,
M. DICKINSON.

N.B. As the Goods are well bought and nicely chosen, she flatters herself it will be an Enducement for their future Favours; and also returns the Ladies and Gentlemen her most cordial Thanks for the extraordinary Encouragement they have given her.

Virginia Gazette
(Purdie-Dixon)
October 14, 1773

Just IMPORTED, in the latest Vessels from London and SELLING by the Subscriber, next Door above the Coffee House, for ready Money, A GENTEEL and very elegant Assortment of JEWELLERY and MILLINERY, &c. consisting of fine Blond Hoods, Italian and Lace Muffs, Fancy Caps, Egrets, Breast Flowers, Fillets, Lace and Gauze Caps, &c. handsome Agate Necklaces and Earrings set with Marcasites, Paste, Ditto, French Wax Bows and Solitaires, Wax Pearl, real Garnets, Jet Ditto, Velvet Collars, Paste Pins of various Kinds, Sprigs suitable to all, which are beautifully set, Paste and plain Combs, set Shoe Buckles; Garnet, Marcasite, Paste, and plain Gold Lockets and Crosses; Italian and Blond Lace; Fancy, and Silver Stomachers; Ribands, Fans, Bobbins, Tapes: Gentlemens and Ladies Silk, and other Gloves, Gresham's Pumps, Sewing Silk, Cotton Thread, Book Muslin, thick Ditto, Cambricks, Lawns, Gauzes, black and white Sarcenets, casting Handkerchiefs and Teresas, Lawn, Muslin, Pocket, and Gauze Ditto, worked Book Muslin Aprons, Lawn and black flounced Ditto, Gauze Shades, Boys Satin Caps with Feathers, Hats, Bonnets, Cloaks, Ladies fashionable Riding Hats, with black, blue, and white Ostrich Feathers for them, and Gloves suitable; complete Suits of Gauze, and Blond Lace; Gentlemens Lace Ruffles, Minionet and Blond Laces; rich white, flowered, striped, and plain Lustrings; plain, and striped Tafetas; Persians, black Mode, Chintzes, Calicoes, Gentlemens Bags and Roses; Silk, Cotton, Thread, and Worsted Hose; Morocco, and Silk Pocket Books, with or without Instruments; Tortoise Shell, and other Sorts of Memorandum Books; Washballs, undressed Dolls, Childrens Tea Sets; Silk, and fine black Russel Quilts; very fine Bombasin, and Crape. Also a Variety of other Things too tedious to insert.

I have on Hand a small Assortment of CLOTHS, and proper TRIMMINGS, which I would sell Wholesale on low Terms, for Cash or short Credit. —I take this Opportunity to return Thanks to those Gentlemen and Ladies who have favoured me with their Custom, and to assure them they shall be served upon the most reasonable Terms by their much obliged humble Servant,
MARY DICKENSON.

Skirt trimmed with JACOB'S LADDER
Galerie des Modes
Eighteenth-Century French Fashion Plates [illegible]

Virginia Gazette — Rind
May 12, 1774

Just imported from London, and to be disposed of by the subscriber, at a low advance, for ready money only,
A NEAT and elegant assortment of MILLINERY, JEWELLERY, and other GOODS, which are exceeding well chose, and in the newest taste, viz. Patent, net, and blond lace hoods, rich suits of ditto, puffs, whims, fancy, true Italian, and gauze caps, ditto nosegay and breast flowers, sultains, egrets, fillets, baves, plumes, minionet lace, blond ditto, and thread edging, gentlemens laced ruffles, ladies tupees and French curles, blue, black, and white ostrich feathers, riding hats, suitable gloves to ditto, Jacob's ladder, velvet collars, locket, crown taste, and a great variety of other ribbands, true Italian lace, ribband, fancy and silver stomachers, silver corals and bells, plain and set combs, paste buckles, bows and soletaires, various kinds of sprig and paste pins, blue agate set round with marcasite, pinch wax, real garnet and mock, paste, white wax and wax pearl necklaces and earrings, cluster, garnet, plain gold, and marcasite lockets and crosses, black pins, earring and stay hooks, paste ditto, gold bands, buttons, and loops, watch strings, keys, seals, and trinkets, smelling bottles, tortoiseshell dandy prats, pocketbooks with instruments, fine India cotton thread, floss, and sewing silk, green silk purses, needles, pins, bobbins and tapes, single and double black pins, curling tongues, and hair powder, patent, ribbed, and white China hose, fine cotton and thread ditto, Didsbury's shoes, Gresham's pumps, pink, blue, and white sattin ditto, pink, blue, and white sattin quilts, black russell ditto, beautiful wedding and French mounted fans, second mourning, black, and common ditto, rich white flowered and plain lustring, shot and striped ditto, plain and striped taffeties, India chintzes and callicoes, fine Irish linen, super fine India dimity, black bombazeen, grained kid, lamb, silk gloves and mits, boys caps and feathers, chipped and cane hats, bonnets and cloaks, book and thin muslins, cambricks, lawns, white and black gauzes, catgut and queen's nett book muslin and lawns, needle worked aprons, black, white and coloured flowered casting handkerchiefs, muslin, lawn, gauze, and checked ditto; rich sword suits, undressed dolls, very nice brass mounted trunks, either for chariot or chaise; and a multiplicity of other articles, too tedious to enumerate.
M. DICKERSON.

N. B. She returns those gentlemen and ladies, who have favoured her with their custom, her most cordial thanks; particularly her good friends in the country; and as it shall ever be her study to give satisfaction, they may rely on their orders being attended to with the strictest care, by their much obliged and very humble servant,
M. D.

Mary Dickinson
GLOSSARY

Checks -

a fabric of plain weave with colored warp and weft stripes intersecting at right angles to form squares. They can be made of any fiber or combination of fibers, although linen and cotton were the most popular. Large bold checks were often called furniture checks, and were used for upholstery, slip covers and curtains. Printed, as well as woven, checks were available.

Cockade -

a decorative piece worn on hats. Cockades came in different shapes, but were often a circular piece of ribbon placed around a button. On military hats, the cockade was a way of showing the rank of the wearer, such as captain or lieutenant.

Dandyprats -

a needlecase made in the shape of a small mannequin.

Denmark Hat -

a man's hat with a Denmark cock, i.e. turned up high at the back and lower in front.

Flies -

short for butterfly cap, a small cap of fine material wired and shaped like a butterfly. It sat on top of the head.

Mantua Maker -

a maker of fine gowns.

Puffs -

soft loose curls; also a type of cap.

Shagreen -

sharkskin dyed green; popular for small cases called etuis.

Tates (sold with hair rolls ) -

a small hairpiece or lock of hair.

Turban -

a scarf twisted around the head in the form of a turban, the ends often dangling behind; often swathed around a cap; usually made of gauze and trimmed with feathers.

Woolpacks (with drop curls) -

a woollen pad over which the hair is dressed.

GOWN with STOMACHER, PETTICOAT (COAT) and Sleeve RUFFLES
Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg by Linda Baumgarten

Virginia Gazette
Purdie-Dixon
October 24, 1771 M BRODIE
Just arrived from LONDON,
Makes and trims, in the newest Taste, Sacks and Coats, Gowns and Petticoats, all Sorts of Ladies Brunswick and Jesuit Dresses, Sultana Robes, Robedecores, &c. She served her Time, and was Successour, to the original Makers, at their Warehouse in Pall Mall; her Partner still continues to carry on the Business in London by whose Assistance, and that of the Queen's Mantua-maker, she is every three months to be supplied with the Fashions. This, added to great Diligence, and a strong Desire to please, she hopes will be a sufficient Recommendation to the Ladies to favour her with their commands, which she will most thankfully acknowledge, by showing a punctual Observance to their Time and Orders. Ladies whom it may not suit to come to Town may be fitted by sending her a Pattern. She lodges, till a more convenient House can be got, at Mrs. Rathell's Store, where Mr. Ayscough formerly lived, on the south Side of the Capitol, Williamsburg.

761 AVED: The Marquise de Saint-Maur dressed as a Sultana, 1743.
Collection Wildenstein. (Photo Flammarion)
SULTANA ROBES
20,000 Years of Fashion by Francois Boucher

Margaret Brodie
GLOSSARY

Brunswick Dress -

a travelling costume with a waistcoat which buttons up the front, a coat with loose pleats at the back, long sleeves and a hood. Can also be an open gown with long sleeves and a high neckline buttoned up with a false front .

Jesuit Dress -

a short fitted gown with long sleeves and a high neck-line, with buttons up to the neck; was worn as an indoor morning gown.

Robedecore, Robe de Cour, Grand Habit -

Court gown with whalebone-stiffened bodice and stomacher, with a separate petticoat, worn over wide hoops. The skirt was usually decorated with swags of material and had a train. The gown was made of rich materials, and was heavily ornamented.

Sultan, Sultane, Sultana Robe -

an open robe travelling gown with short robings and a plain back, worn with a stomacher and a petticoat of a different color. The skirt was caught up with buttons and loops.

Marie-Antoinette in a grand habit de cour (1778).
Eighteenth-Century French Fashion Plates
Stella Blum, ed.

Just imported, and to be SOLD by the Subscriber, near the Capitol, Williamsburg,
RICH white Satins, plain and flowered, plain white Lustrings, striped and flowered ditto, striped and spotted ditto, coloured ditto, Shot ditto, black ditto, coloured rich Ducapes, coloured Sarcenets for Summer Wear, fine white and coloured grounded Cottons, Trimmings of all Sorts, both Silk and Thread, Silver ditto, rich Satin quilted Petticoats, best Bombazeen, best Norwich Crape, Hat ditto, black Fans, white Silver-mounted Ivory and coloured ditto, Best Gresham's white, coloured, and black Satin Pumps, ditto Everlasting and Calimanco, Children's ditto, white Silk Stockings, fine Cotton ditto, white and black Silk Gloves and Mits, white and coloured Kid ditto, Pocket Hand-kerchiefs, Pantheon Bonnets, Caps, Net Hoods, Purple and white Calicoes, Threads, Tapes, Silk Laces, Silk Ferrets, Persian Linings, black Gauze Riband, Lustring ditto, &c. &c.
MARY DAVENPORT. Virginia Gazette (Purdie-Dixon)
November 12, 1772.

Mary Davenport
GLOSSARY

Ducape -

a stout plain woven silk with a decided weft rib or cord.

Everlasting -

a stout, closely woven worsted stuff with a twill design.

Pantheon Bonnet -

a small round hat made of lace, flowers and feathers with a large filmy veil hanging down the back. It was placed slightly backward on the head.

London Tradesmen's Cards of the XVIII Century by Ambrose Heal

November 14, 1777.

THE SUBSCRIBER begs Leave to inform the Public in general, and her Friends in particular, that she has opened a Store opposite Mr. John Greenhow's, near the Market Square where she purposes to sell all kinds of European Goods on Commission. They may be assured there shall be the greatest Care and Assiduity to execute their Commands with Dispatch and Punctuality. She has now on Hand the following Articles, for ready Money only, viz. — Elegant Paste Necklaces, Earrings, Shoe and knee Buckles, Pinchbeck Watches, Men and Womens Watch Chains, Keys, Seals, and Crystals, a few Materials for Watchmakers, Sleeve and Coat Buttons, Silver Toothpick Cases, Gold and Silver Lace, Pocket Pistols, best Ivory Handle Knives and forks, Cut Glass Casters, with Silver Tops, ornamental, Tea and Table China Bowls, &c. Glass and Queen's Ware, a neat Tea Urn, with a Mahogany Stand, a Mahogany Tea tray, German Flute, Guitar, Backgammon Table, Table Linen, Osnaburgs, Virginia Cloth, Cambrick, Lawn, Calicoes, Virginia Counterpanes, Ladies Riding Hats and Feathers, Velvet Collars, Feather Muff, Wearing Apparel, Household Furniture, &c. &c. Old Peach and Apple Brandy, old Jamaica Spirits, Holland Geneva, fine Stomachick Cordial, old Madeira and old Bourdeaux Claret in Bottles, Chocolate, &c. &c. with many other Articles too tedious to enumerate.
ANN NEILL.

Virginia Gazette Dixon and Hunter — November 14, 1777.

792 A. PESNE: Countess Sophia Maria de Voss, 1745. Berlin Staatliche Schlösser und Gärten. (Photo W. Steinkopf)
LADY'S RIDING HAT
20,000 Years of Fashion by Francois Boucher

For Sale at NEILL'S Commission Store, in Williamsburg,
An assortment of silks, Irish linens, muslins, suits of lace, India chintz, pocket handkerchiefs, checks, osnabrugs and Negro cloth, camlets, gold and silver appellets, silver buttons, worsted and silk stockings, black feathers, paste shoe, knee, and hat buckles, best paste necklaces and earrings, silver spoons and tea tongs, hair sprigs, silver blond lace, Ladies saddle and saddle cloth, watch keys and chains, Jamaica spirits, Barbados rum, Holland geneva, Batavia arrack, brandies, cordials, old Madeira and claret in casks and bottles, loaf and brown sugar, rice, black pepper, pimenta, china and glass ware, starch, needles, pins and threads, household furniture, wearing apparel, Ladies riding dress and hat, watch maker's materials, decanter lables, India stripes for gowns, nankeens, green tea in pound and half pound canisters, India handkerchiefs, French lawns, coffee, sewing silks, checks, writing paper, &c ., &c., &c. Virginia Gazette Dixon [and Hunter] — May 8, 1778

Ann Neil
GLOSSARY

Negro Cloth -

a coarse inexpensive material of linen or cotton used for slaves' clothing.

Virginia cloth -

any material made in Virginia, as opposed to imported cloth. It could be wool, linen or cotton or a combination of any two fibers.

Apron. Block-printed cotton, France, 1770-1780. The bib was designed to be pinned to the bodice. In the nineteenth century, this "pinner" form evolved into the pinafore. Shown with a silk gown of the 1770s.

Apron. Sheer white linen worked with fine chain stiches and drawn work, England or Continental Europe, 1770-1790.
Eighteenth-Century Costume at Williamsburg by Linda Baumgarten

VIRGINIA GAZETTE
Purdie-Dixon
June 14, 1770 LUCY RANDOLPH,
of London, at the Three Angels, No. 9, Long Walk, Cloysters,
UNDERSTANDING that her friends in Virginia being unacquainted with the business transacted by her, takes this method to inform them that she makes and sells all sorts of MILLINERY, viz.
Brussels, Mecklin, and minionet laces; blonds and black lace, gauze and catguts; plain and worked muslins and long lawns; black and white crape, and black love handkerchiefs; fine threads, cotton, thread and tapes; silk purses, gloves, mits, and ferrets; stay, silk, lac cotton, thread, and ferret laces; bobbins, pins, and needles; head and breast flowers, Italian and French; skeleton and bunch wire; muffs and tippets, feather and fur; leather gloves, mits, and silk pocket books; Gentlemens bags and roses; childrens shoes, stockings, bone and packthread stays; boys silk and satin caps, ostrich and cock feathers; Ladies and boys satin and beaver hats with do. hair rolls, tates, curls, and silk rolls; ribands, riband and flower stomachers and knots; shenneals, garlands, and gown trimmings; quilted and puckered girls caps, white and black; coloured and black fans, velvet and silk collars, beaded or plain; Gentlemens stocks and stock tapes; childbed linen, baskets, cushions, and lines; wax beads, French and English, India and wax pearl; horn and tortoiseshell combs, plain or set; set necklaces and earrings, fancy paste pins, &c. flannels and dimities of all sorts, dimity and calico bed gowns; modes, satins, persians, sarsenets of all widths, figured and plain; mantuas 3-4 and half ell, and all sorts of silks in pieces; russels, calimancoes, durants, and taminies, coarse and fine; scarlet cloths and duffels, in cardinals or by the yard; satin and silk cardinals, cloaks, hats, and bonnets; satin, silk, and stuff cardinals, cloaks, hats, and bonnets; satin, silk, and stuff quilts, of all prices; with all kinds of childrens ready made clothes, wholesale and retail, on the lowest terms.

Lucy Randolph
GLOSSARY

Bedgown -

a loose short gown worn with the shift and petticoat. It wraps around the body slightly, and is fastened by tying the apron over it. Usually worn with a kerchief.

Duffels -

heavy, napped woollen cloth.

Taminies -

same as tammy, a lightweight worsted fabric.